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Bimmer-Bob gets an MR2

Bimmer-Bob · 2020-06-02T08:03:06Z

Well, here we go again. I've posted a build thread at a couple of the "other forums" and some of you may have seen those already. Or maybe not. But as I'm getting my feet wet here and finding that I kind of like it, I figured I'd start a (third) thread here as well. Anyway, my background is mostly in Euro cars - my first car was actually an '87 Volvo, and I went through some VW's growing up as well (both air-cooled and water-cooled). More recently I discovered BMWs - first a 1990s 318ti, and then my current love, a 2010 128i: I've also spent a few years with a diesel Mercedes W124, which I just parted with a month or two ago: There have also beens some Toyota in the family, however, my wife having owned an '04 Scion xB and me an '05 tC. We currently own a 2014 4Runner. Anyway, I was recently browsing Bring a Trailer and other sites looking for a new car, very half-heartedly at first, but you know how that goes. Before I knew it I was bidding on cars. I thought I was going to go for something classic Euro - I love BMW 2002tii's and Porsche 914s's, and have recently become somewhat enamored of certain Mercedes SL's (R107's and R129's). I actually became pretty fixated on a particular 1985 Mercedes 280SL - a Euro gray-market model with only 24,000 miles and a manual transmission - and my casual car-watching suddenly felt like I was really about to buy a car: Unfortunately, it got away from me at auction, to the tune of $42K. I started to realize that the nice cars were going form more than I really wanted to spend on a second car that I didn't really need, at least not for any rational reason. And then I saw an MR2 Spyder up for auction. It wasn't a particularly remarkable example; in fact, it had a pretty regrettable aftermarket body kit. But it reminded me of something - I recalled kind of lusting after these cars back when they were new. I remember configuring one online, in dark green with a tan top, and reading pretty glowing reviews in the press at the time. But they disappeared long before I could ever afford one, and I sort of forgot about my passing fancy. But now, it seemed like just the thing: a fun, toss-able little roadster, a mid-engine curiosity, but used-car affordable and Toyota-reliable. I mean, I'm probably preaching to the choir here, but it's an intriguing combination, is it not? Anyway, by the end of the day (after scouring the internet for a few hours), I stumbled upon a 2003 Electric Green Mica MR2 Spyder on eBay, with the tan leather interior and tan top, and only 40,000 miles on the odometer. I immediately called the owner and started dealing. It had everything I wanted, except the limited-slip differential option (I know, not available until 2004). And it also had some pretty awful 17" chrome wheels: The car was in Minnesota and me in Washington (about to move to California) but I arranged a pre-purchase inspection, and then bought the car. Since I'm about to move, it really didn't make sense to ship it to me in Washington, but it was too soon to ship to California, so I did the only sensible thing: I had the car shipped to Monkeywrench Racing in Michigan. This was primarily to have a limited-slip differential installed - I really feel like every sporting RWD car needs an LSD, and it was the only box my car didn't check - but while it was ther I also had a lightweight flywheel and new clutch installed, as well as Crower Stage 1 cams. I figured as long as it was there at MWR, why not? It's something I otherwise would never have gotten around to. Oh, and fortunately I was able to have the wheels switched back to stockers first:

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FormInFunction

(@forminfunction)

Eminent Member

I’m thinking that you may not have the front under-bumper/chin piece if the front end seems light. Missing that along with having sagging or non-existent underbody plastics, worn out suspension, or a questionable tire balance/alignment can contribute to that feeling. Personally I don’t run the diaper or other underbody plastic pieces but it does allow more turbulent air flow under the car & eventually too many little things will add up. Never had an issue with feeling unstable with the alignment & suspension sorted out, although I can only confirm that up to around 130mph in a straight line

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Posted : 22/06/2020 2:23 pm

Bimmer-Bob

(@bimmer-bob)

Eminent Member

Been really busy with a new job, but I did get some deferred maintenance done. Last oil change on record was June 2019 (at a quick lube place) so I decided to do a proper oil change. I ran some LIQUI MOLY Pro-Line engine flush and filled the sump with some Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W-30, and replaced the no-name filter (which was screwed on WAY too tight!) with an OEM one. I also replaced the drain plug with a Stahlbus drain valve to make things a little quicker and less messy next time. Unfortunately, in my haste I stripped the oil pan threads, and ended up having to replace the entire pan! Oh well, lesson learned, slow down. It was a bit of a pain to get the stock pan off, but everything went back together beautifully with some Toyota FIPG (no leaks yet, knock on wood).

I also changed the air filter and wiper blades (PIAA Aero Vogue silicone, never tried them before but are supposed to last twice as long as traditional rubber – we’ll see, I guess). I did notice a leak from the transaxle, but it looked like it was coming from the drain plug. Turns out it wasn’t quite torqued to spec. I’ve had a nasty grind getting into reverse occasionally, so I decided rather than replace the lost Valvoline Synchromesh MTF to just do a complete drain and fill with Redline MT-90 (my preferred brand of gear oil in other applications). So far , so good – still a little crunch into reverse when cold if I’m not careful, but it sounds like that is kind of par for the course with these things. Double clutching doesn’t really seem to help, it’s just sort of try and try again without forcing it and it goes in fine the 2nd or 3rd try. Not a huge deal.

I washed and detailed the car, including the engine compartment and the frunk (plastics and underneath) – those areas had been kind of ignored, but cleaned up nicely. I hit just about every piece of black plastic I could find with some Chemical Guys VRP, which I highly recommend. It seriously makes tired plastic look brand new, without any kind of greasy residue like a typical dressing.

I also replaced the seat adjustment knob on the driver’s seat, which was broken. The interior is otherwise in pretty nice shape, except that the leather panels on the door cards are sort of coming loose on a couple edges – need to look into how to fix that. I also ordered some replacement stickers for the fuel door and rear deck lid release.

Nothing too exciting, except a heaping dose of TLC for an older car (which to me is exciting, lol).

Anyway, I’m thoroughly enjoying this little car. It’s impractical as hell, but it’s a blast to commute in. It really feels like nothing else. It’s almost hard to believe this thing was sold new even 20 years ago – in terms of road isolation, it reminds me of a much older car – my old ’72 Super Beetle comes to mind. Of course this thing handles much better, but seriously, I feel like one step up from a motorcycle driving this thing on the highway, lol.

It’s also a joy to work on. It’s quite simple and straightforward, everything is rather accessible – at least by modern car standards. I mean, the oil pan was a bit of a pain because it was practically fused to the block, but access wasn’t a problem. O2 sensors? You can literally reach in and grab them. Nothing obstructing the valve cover, other than the rear strut brace, etc. These are things that cause cursing and gnashing of teeth on my BMW, because of all the work you have to do before you even get to the work you’re actually trying to do. I’m sure it’s a similar story with other makes. The modern engine bay and undercarriage is just so tightly jam packed. The MR2 Spyder is refreshingly uncluttered in that regard.

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Topic starter Posted : 14/07/2020 5:38 am

dblotii

(@dblotii)

Estimable Member

Reverse gear has no synchronizers, so it will crunch if you are rolling at all when you shift into reverse. It is also possible that you clutch isn’t fully disengaging, but the tranny oil is not the problem.

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Posted : 14/07/2020 3:46 pm

Bimmer-Bob

(@bimmer-bob)

Eminent Member

@dblotii, yeah the change in fluid didn’t really make any difference. I’m never rolling when it happens – it’s usually when I’m first backing out of my garage or a parking space, so both clutch and brake fully depressed. Clutch is brand new.

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Topic starter Posted : 14/07/2020 8:50 pm

haloruler64

(@haloruler64)

Noble Member

From my experience the Spyder makes a bit of a crunch once in a while when going into reverse, even if you’re still. It happened both with my 5 speed and 6 speed, both stock clutch and stage 2 clutch. Nothing horrible, just a quick noise, and not always. Only when cold.

2000 Toyota MR2 Spyder, 2021 Lexus UX 250h F Sport

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Posted : 14/07/2020 10:36 pm

Bimmer-Bob

(@bimmer-bob)

Eminent Member

Posted by: @haloruler64

From my experience the Spyder makes a bit of a crunch once in a while when going into reverse, even if you’re still. It happened both with my 5 speed and 6 speed, both stock clutch and stage 2 clutch. Nothing horrible, just a quick noise, and not always. Only when cold.

Exactly my experience so far. I’ve just learned to be extra careful when backing out in the morning (or after work).

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Topic starter Posted : 14/07/2020 11:34 pm

Bimmer-Bob

(@bimmer-bob)

Eminent Member

Any tips on fixing the peeling edges on the leather door panel inserts? I guess some type of glue would be needed, but I’m afraid to just start trying random glues. I don’t want to damage the leather, or have glue seep through, or get all over the plastic, or whatever. Is there some kind of special upholstery glue that is needed?

The driver’s pull handle has the slightest bit of play as well – that will probably be just a matter of tightening some fasteners, so no big deal I would guess.

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Topic starter Posted : 14/07/2020 11:43 pm

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