2AR-FE swap cruise control retrofit

Mscholten · 2020-04-21T23:26:21Z

One of the consequences of the 2AR-FE swap being drive by wire is that I was able to retrofit cruise control into my 2003 manual Spyder and it looks completely stock. Here is what to do: 1. Find an early 2000s Toyota in your local salvage yard, preferably a car with the same steering wheel as the Spyder- Celica, Corolla, Spyder SMT, etc. Buy the clock spring, cruise control lever, and steering wheel backing with the opening for the cruise lever. If you don’t have any pins left from rewiring your harness, grab a connector off the ECU with the smaller pins. I took all of this off a 2003 Celica. 2. Remove your steering wheel after disconnecting the battery and removing the airbag. There are Torx screws on each side to release the airbag. The clock spring is held in by three clips, at 12, 4, and 8 o clock. 3. Replace the rear shell on the steering wheel. 4. The manual Spyder steering wheel has the holes for the cruise lever, but they aren’t tapped. It’s M5x0.8. 5. At this point it is probably smart to measure the resistances of your cruise lever and make sure they match the tC lever. Mine were the same. 6. Attach the cruise lever to your newly tapped holes and verify the clock spring is functional- if you look closely the stock clock spring (left) only has 2 pins and the cruise control has 5. Make sure the two pins of the cruise stalk, pins 2 and 3 in the Celica, carry through. My pin #2 wasn’t giving consistent readings, so I relocated the lever pins to 3 and 4. 7. Reinstall the clock spring and the steering wheel into the car. 8. Next, you need to run a pair of wires from the clock spring to the body controller. At the clock spring side I depinned pin 4 on the connector to the right and connected my scavenged pins on pins 3 and 4. Thanks to Paul Hibbs for the photo and guidance. The red and white wire is ground and none of the other wires are used in the Manual Spyder. I routed the wires next to Marc’s drive by wire harness. On the ECU side, I connected one of the wires to body ground, and the second wire goes into pin 19 of the 22 pin connector- use your leftover pins. This pin gets routed through the body controller to the cruise pin on the ECU. 9. So, now you have cruise, and brake (provided by the body controller already, thanks Marc). The last piece is the clutch signal. In the Spyder, the clutch switch flips between Open (Clutch out) and GND (Clutch in): The tC expects 12v (Clutch out) and Open (Clutch in): The current version of the body controller doesn’t do this automatically, although I will be testing a white wire mod. Until then, you can tie the clutch wire (the green wire- I am not sure if it is in auto trans harnesses, because I used a manual harness) going to the ECU to one of the Ignition wires on E4- This will make the ECU see 12V and let you set the cruise. It won’t disable cruise when you push in the clutch like the eventual correct wiring will, but who pushes in the clutch while in cruise? Now you will have functional cruise control with a completely stock appearance. The only thing at this point is the cluster won’t show you when you have cruise on or set. I don’t know if the stock cluster has the lightbulb and a CAN message needs to be sent, or whether somebody could wire up a switch to an LED, or ... Thanks to Marc and Paul for help.

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Mscholten

(@mscholten)

Eminent Member

Thanks- it actually looks like that part applies to mk2 mr2s as well. I will probably go wander around the salvage yard to see if I can find something that will work.

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Topic starter Posted : 24/04/2020 7:05 pm

CSPIDY

(@cspidy)

Reputable Member

Very nice write up, nothing like an OEM designed system. Very reliable

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Posted : 26/04/2020 1:01 pm

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