@dev That's exactly why I welded in the bolts. I tried multiple different nut/bolt setups and every single one looked like it was going to fall off at some point so I just said screw it. A quick spot weld on either side of the bolt should suffice. I tested the welds by putting in a long bolt and hitting it with a hammer a few times... no issues so I called it a success.
@mr2zeal The welder I ended up going with was the Forney EasyWeld 125FC The settings used were a feed speed of 4 and the "Voltage" selector was set to thin plate(I'll double check this).
@dev That's exactly why I welded in the bolts. I tried multiple different nut/bolt setups and every single one looked like it was going to fall off at some point so I just said screw it. A quick spot weld on either side of the bolt should suffice. I tested the welds by putting in a long bolt and hitting it with a hammer a few times... no issues so I called it a success.
If I had to do it again thats what I would have done or should have done. Everything works so far so Im just not going to touch it until it slides off again but since the pipe supports the gasket hopefully there is no room to move. Maybe I can just weld a cut washer and just do it on the car. I have one of these electronic spike protectors for welding on the car so the electrical system won't get fried.
@dev because I'm working on stuff I have the interior cubby panels removed, so each time i've welded I've just removed the PFC completly and disconnected the battery.
@dev because I'm working on stuff I have the interior cubby panels removed, so each time i've welded I've just removed the PFC completly and disconnected the battery.
The more I read up on welding the more cautious I became. I was also worried about the body models and other electronic hardware. I have read about people frying their ABS models or body electronics that it was it was a little too scary for me to take a chance so I became a little over cautious. I needed it to spot weld the exhaust pipes that come out of the bumper so everything lined up straight which was very hard to do but I got lucky somehow. If I had to do it again I would have adjustable clamps so they can be adjusted.
I also used the welder to weld in the cut seat rails pieces to fit the S2k seats instead of drilling though the floor board. I over did it to make sure its not going to be ripped out in an accident. These cheap flux core welders get the job done.
More progress... Got it all put back together.. Got some of the copper gasket maker, put it back together, and now we're here.
This is what the exhaust leak looked like when I took off the gasket... 🤣
Next step is to wire up the Innovate Wideband.. I just need to figure out how to do this without cutting the wire to lengthen it... That's the last thing I want to do, although it may be exactly what I end up doing.. Once that's in, I'll be able to start tuning this thing and get my fuel trims better. for now, I havre no clue what my AFR's are after installing the new injectors.. The car runs well though off the corrected settings and sounds great! I am going to be installing a CAT at some point too because it is smelly!
Another part that I've had for years... and never put on.. the rcntype diffuser. But, it's on finally! Next thing to do is extend the wires for the wideband.. and wait until my C-One replica side vents arrive.
My thoughts moving forward after that are going to be to purchase and install a new top and then get the TRD replica side skirts and front splitter.
I've always liked those diffusers. It does not fit with my TRD rear skirt though. 🙁
Once I get my engine swapped out and tune my car to the new piston setup and all that, I'm going to start thinking about some more creative exhaust solutions and other exterior mods. That diffuser is on my short list of things that I'd really like to get. I'll be following along with your project while I keep trying to kick-start mine back into motion.
More progress... Got it all put back together.. Got some of the copper gasket maker, put it back together, and now we're here.
This is what the exhaust leak looked like when I took off the gasket... 🤣
Next step is to wire up the Innovate Wideband.. I just need to figure out how to do this without cutting the wire to lengthen it... That's the last thing I want to do, although it may be exactly what I end up doing.. Once that's in, I'll be able to start tuning this thing and get my fuel trims better. for now, I havre no clue what my AFR's are after installing the new injectors.. The car runs well though off the corrected settings and sounds great! I am going to be installing a CAT at some point too because it is smelly!
BTW: I had SEVERAL failures with the innovate wideband sensor. Once I switched to PLX, it's been solid and I never looked back. If you already have the Innovate, then use it. Once is dies, don't bother replace anything, just trash it and buy a PLX instead.
Looking good. I may have mentioned it if not avoid the TRD replica sides like the plague. I wasn't the only one that noticed this as its a fiberglass mold thing. It's because the piece being long its harder to get the high and low spots out of the fiberglass. I tried but there was less material to work with before I would tear into weave. After painting them again I could still see the distortions that will get on your nerves. The best thing I did was throw in the towel and buy a pair of red cracked original poly and start over with fixing them and painting it myself. Completely fixed.
If I could go back in time I would have bought many hardtops, TRD shifters and TRD lip kits and triple my profit. Who would have thought all of this stuff would age like fine wine.
More progress... Got it all put back together.. Got some of the copper gasket maker, put it back together, and now we're here.
This is what the exhaust leak looked like when I took off the gasket... 🤣
Next step is to wire up the Innovate Wideband.. I just need to figure out how to do this without cutting the wire to lengthen it... That's the last thing I want to do, although it may be exactly what I end up doing.. Once that's in, I'll be able to start tuning this thing and get my fuel trims better. for now, I havre no clue what my AFR's are after installing the new injectors.. The car runs well though off the corrected settings and sounds great! I am going to be installing a CAT at some point too because it is smelly!
BTW: I had SEVERAL failures with the innovate wideband sensor. Once I switched to PLX, it's been solid and I never looked back. If you already have the Innovate, then use it. Once is dies, don't bother replace anything, just trash it and buy a PLX instead.
I agree. I did not have a failure with the Innovate but it needed to be grounded at the same point of the ECU otherwise it would give you a different reading. I still don't know if that reading was correct either and then after seeing what others experiences were it was pointed out how unreliable they were and that PLX was the way to go.
@dev Well all of this just brings up more questions... I need to get oil pressure and boost gauges next and I had planned on sticking with Innovate gauges for them all... Now you have me second guessing my choices..
With that said, I have done two things to prevent issues related to grounding; First, I ground direct to Chassis every chance I can; I have an extra ground coming directly from the battery, and have it bolted just above the battery, and I have an extra cable spliced into one of the ECU grounds that is again grounded directly to the Chassis. I've tried to prevent grounding issues from the start.
On the note of gauges, I got this installed today. A very clean install with no wire extensions necessary, thank god. I pulled ACC power from the head unit and grounded direct to the Chassis. Got it calibrated to Air and with o2 feedback enabled, it sits between 14.7-15.2, exactly as one would expect for Stoich. I haven't driven much with it installed, but so far afr's look to be spot in openloop and are in the range of 11-12.
I believe it’s called a ground offset issue. I solved it by running a wire from where my ECU was grounded to where the Wideband was grounded and it solved the issue. I forgot the details since it’s been so long and it was recommended I do that. I believe this is due to some kind of grounding loop issues which can offset the reading. I find this issues a lot with car audio installs and the solution is the same.
I found this for you. Probably a better way to confirm.
@dev good read! My basic understanding of this is a resistance created in the ground created by an over voltage. My intentions were correct, having the ground directly to the chassis and having an extra ground of a low gauge wire, coming directly from the battery to the chassis. I am not relying on the Headunit/radios ground, but rather utilizing the screw below the wiring to ground directly.
I may do a test in the next few days with a multimeter to see if there is any resistance/voltage drop between battery and gauge ground.
