Patrick’s Build

And these have now come in 

So, I Purchased the AEM F/IC  plug and play harness from Monkey Wrench.. Installed it.. Began some datalogging... Put premiun fuel in so it helps prevent some potential issues while messing with the fueling and MAF..

Installed a 3" intake and have began cleaning up the fuel trims. Initially i have the voltages  skewed to much, some up 18% and was pulling a LTFT around 13.8 so i did some tweeking and am now with a LTFT at 3.8 and short term is currently sitting at 0.8. For the majority of the map the MAF voltage is skewed by an additional 11%   I need to dial in the voltages in a little more in the middle rpms.

With normal driving my TPS is normally between 5-10% up to 20% on acceleration..

I've noticed in openloop my fueling is staying VERY lean, just under Stoich, so i need to increase those voltages a little to get some more fuel in that range(to lean for my liking). Seams to effect it when i am around 50% throttle +/-10% when i'm above 5500PRM and WOT between 3500-5000.

At WOT right before redline i am right at 12.3(Good place).. It doesn't start to richen up until around 6500.. I'd like to get/keep the rest around 13-13.5(between 3500-5500rpm)..

Anyways, In other news i went to my first AUTOX event. Didn't drive, but did some ride alongs!

Lets just say i am now going to an event Next weekend, probably won't drive that one either, just want to get a better feel for everything! Great fun and i am excited to drive when i decide i'm ready and have learned the ways!

Had some fun, Met some cool People, Met our very own LEVI and saw his car, didn't see him drive unfortunatly. Got there to late.

Heres some of the Datalogging pics from another thread i made and have already forgotten about. lol

Heres some quick screen shots of the log from my drive home.

this first one includes a WOT, downshift and three normal upshifts.

this is first through third WOT

I have installed a 3"intake routed behind the battery. have a decent tune to correct fueling and MAF signal using the F/IC. Got a tear in my soft top so i purchased a new black one. Should be here in the next week or two.  Purchased the partial turbo kit from Lexus005.

Car just rolled past 150k miles. Original engine, Original clutch. No issues except for random VVT solenoid which i think is the PnP harness. going to take it out and look; i have swapped the solenoid for a known good, haven't checked the little filter below yet though.

Compression test showed me running over 200psi on all 4.

Been running 0w-30 euro for the last few months now. I'm not burning any oil. tightened some nuts and bolts that were rattled loose.

In the process of painting a new front bumper. Looks good, time is hard to come by so it's one step at a time. Need to sand and two more base coats prior to clearing it.

figured i'd update a little. I changed out my wheels to something a little better fitting. Put on konig backbones, 16x7 rear and 15x6.5 front. falcon ZE512 tires with 195/50r15 front, 205/16r45 rear. I would like to put 215's on the back, but these will due for now. Also recently did the solid brass shifter bushings on the transmission and sold my AEM F/IC to start the fund for a PFC and datalogit.

Cut up my stock intake box and fiberglassed an intake using the stock MAF and Vanes piping to create an intake using that but routed behind the battery with an AEM Dryflow filter. Aside from the new black top and replacing the front pads and rotors to match the back.. I am almost at 160K miles. Regular oil changes with 0w30 euro.. Car runs great. About to buy something to start using as a daily so i can figure out what rout i want to go with this turbo kit. the cheep mods have come to an end.. Now to fix the issues, buy a second car and then the expensive stuff begins..

UhOh... New wheels and tires. Bye Bye Bronze. I'll save you for track and autox next summer.

And some spyder friend eye candy for the phantom gray & red top lovers like myself.

LP's Front Lip too.

You may be able to see the Lotus Diffuser

LP's Pod

Continued to piece together the Turbo Kit.

I've got PFC installed and tuned using the FC-Hako, Copilot and FC Edit.

Running an intake that's 3" and routed behind the battery.

got PRSpyders 630cc injectors

Installed OBX Oil pan

Awaiting installation of the rcntype diffuser.

before i had the PFC this is the modified intake i was using, much like Levi's mod

Pictures with a GTR

Just installed the Fuel injectors, Siemens DEKA 630cc that i purchased from PRSpyder; ran a compression test and checked/changed spark plugs. Yesterday I installed the Oil Cache can.

The thing that took the longest was changing the settings within CoPilot because there is so little information or explanations about the Injector lag vs Voltage.. So once i figured it out i was golden.

I found This thread from VVT-I    

As I said, I'm still very green when it comes to the PFC, but this is what I've done with my settings.
Also there's something I need clarification on as well. Our Spyder's in South Africa use the same
injector sizes as Japan and the UK which are the 290cc. The base setting as come's in the PFC turbo
for the injectors is:

52.9 % with +0.00 ms.

The setting for the PFC N/A is:

100 % with +0.00 ms.

I have the Siemens DEKA IV 630cc injectrors as sold by Hass. I found this info on the web.
 http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_i...products_id/448.  The turn on time as listed for
these injectors @ 14VDC is 1.14ms. According to the PFC manual (Japanese) the calculation would be:

290 / 630 = 0.4603
The lag time as listed in the PFC manual for the 290 cc standard injectors is 0.608ms.
1.14 - 0.608 = 0.532
I set the injectors 1 - 4 as:
46.0 % with +0.53 ms.

The above settings were calclated for the 290cc injectors. In the US I think the standard injectors
are 270cc, so the appropriate lag time time would need to be found for these injectors.

For the injector vs. battery voltage I took the info on this site  http://injector-rehab.com/kbse/lag.htm  .
I took the settings listed from this site and used these settings to come up with this for my Inj vs. BatV settings:

16V = 0.168ms
14V = 0.280ms
12V = 0.500ms
10V = 0.832ms
8V = 1.500ms
6V = 3.268ms

The operating voltage is normally 14V so I concentrated mainly on the 14V to 10V region. My train of thought would
be that if your battery voltage gets to 16V or drops below the 10V mark that something else in the car is wrong
and needs to be addressed. For this reason I used the 15V guide line to come to an approximate value for the 16V,
and I also approximated the value for the 8V setting. 6V I left standard as came with the PFC. This is where I
need assitance. As you might have noticed, the first site had the turn on time listed as 1.14ms @ 14VDC and the
second site list's it as 0.28ms @14VDC. Still don't understand 100% why. My reasoning is that the second site has
the settings as tested on a bench at specific voltages to calculate the flow of the injectors at said voltage,
but how does that collerate to the 1.14ms as listed by the manufacturer for these injectors? If someone could
clarify this for me it would be appreciated.

With the above settings I set my idle settings to:
Idle A.E. 800 rpm
Idle E/L 850 rpm
Idle A/C 900 rpm
These are slightly higher than the standard settings for A.E. and E/L as came with the PFC, but a very smooth idle
with no hunting. AFR's after a bit of tuning are spot on too. [/CODE]

Old spark plugs were pretty messy and black which makes me believe i am still burning oil or running very rich.. I have been tuning recently with the warm weather and i check my oil often but i am unsure which is the main cause.. Oil burning is about 1qt per 2500 miles give or take(depending on driving style)

Last but not least, Compression results as of 177,711 Miles are as followed:

1   210psi

2   187psi

3   181psi

4   200psi

Car was below operating temp but not cold; Gas down to the floor. for cyl 2&3 i tested twice each time rescrewing on the compression tester ensuring a proper seal.

I may do a leak down test in 2&3 when i get a chance but i have a feeling my valve seals are going.. also think that's the main cause of my oil burning as the main valve cover hose connecting to the intake is pretty moist with oil from increased pressure. I also plan on using some MMO in each cylinder to see if i can loosen up the oil control rings too.

I've gotten the car back idling and driving semi smooth since it was originally running very lean and the idle was terrible after the injector install. I need to do a Bunch more auto tuning through CoPilot to get it at a place i am comfortable. Hopefully after my 40 minute drive to work to make up some time it should be much better.

Various Photos

I'm still around. My MR2 is/was finally on the road after years. Got it inspected and it failed because of three things;
1 - Bad Windshield Wipers
2 - Front wheels rubbing on fender lines(Because the car is low). 
3 - Backup lights don't work

number one has been fixed; number two, After measurements, I should be able to raise the front up by .5" and maintain some rake front to back while resolving any rubbing; number 3, I have been lazy and haven't purchased a backup sensor. The car has now been in this state for about two months. 

Any chance anyone has a backup sensor lying around?

Car runs! It's on the road! engine is strong.
I am no longer in possession of my original spyder, and actually gave the Chassis away to a forum member about a year and a half ago. He was able to get it up and running with a new engine, trans and clutch and has been driving it since. 

My New to me spyder is slowly having modifications put back on it in preparation for the aforementioned turbo kit that will inevitably happen... eventually. 

New photos of her.

how is the OBX oil pan holding up as a moroso alternative?  and which clear sidemarkers did you buy are those supra ones?

Posted by: kamlung

how is the OBX oil pan holding up as a moroso alternative?  and which clear sidemarkers did you buy are those supra ones?

They're Supra side markers, and the OBX oil pan I had on for about two years and 30k miles. It had one or two little pin holes around the welds that I fixed with some JB weld early on. Once that was fixed, I had no issues with it at all.