Hello folks, I would like to give insight into my experience using adjustable Strut Mounts for caster.
Here is Inspector Pickwhickety making sure these are real Cusco mounts.
These are the parts included in the box minus instructions in Japanese and the super cool sticker
First thing you will realize is that these mounts when clocked in caster mode will also deliver negative camber. Also you will be using the left hat on the right side of the vehicle and vise versa. I would assemble them on the correct factory sides and simply remove the top plates and swap them side to side.
Here is the front assembly stack in my bench vise.
Now, make sure you change the bolt position on the top plates because you will not be able to do this once they are in the strut towers. This image shows them in the original factory position. For some reason I did not take a photo of them in the camber/caster position but I will very shortly after my alignment. The first thing you will notice is the extreme negative camber achieved by mounting and adjusting your plates in position. I recommend buying factory Toyota two dot crash bolts and kin:
90105-14147, Bolt Flange
90080-17208, Upper Control Arm Nut
90201-14005, Washer Plate
Put the crash bolt in the upper strut mount position and pull out some of the negative camber (adding back positive). This will prevent you from looking like a bosozoku poser boi. If you are using factory style springs and struts will still contact the brake bracket (hardline to flex fitting), bend it downward. The next step to correcting your spring angle (with the added caster) is using whiteline or superpro caster correction bushings for the front lower control arm. I will post my alignment information very soon with this setup. My experience driving so far has been very positive.
I have a question for you . Why are you adjusting caster and what benefit do you hope to achieve from it.
Caster is generally a difficult setting to get right as there are a lot drawbacks unless you are trying to correct for previous damage or have an advanced suspension set up for a track application.
After reading all the alignment threads on SC I decided it was a good thing to experiment with. There were a few others who had done the same but did no write ups regarding experiences with install. Regarding effect, allowing for more negative caster will reduce the effect of positive camber gain during turning. This translates to a heavier steering feel, but I switched from higher rate springs front as opposed to rear, as I was using TRD comp upfront and Tein S. in the rear prior. This created extreme understeer with popeye-like steering input. Now I'm at Trd comp springs front and rear, whitelines on full stiff front, and medium stiff rear with saner style endlinks. Although my car looks really good, it is primarily for twisty mountain roads. When I need to go to work I drive my reg. cab 4x4 manual trans Tacoma and when I run errands I ride my mountain bike. These leaves my Mr2 for midnight fun runs, bought it 13 years ago now and have put 110k miles on it since.
Here are the saner's I made.
Took this photo during strut install so you see bailing wire holding up the hub from the sway bar lateral (anti-sway bar, stabilizer bar).
I wanted to expand this thread a little bit and hopefully clear confusion of a SC thread.
SC thread:lets-talk-caster-and-how-it-effects-grip-and-handling.118073/
Post #8 refers to negative camber gain during steering angle, This might be true for a double wishbone suspension, but not a McPherson. Thus the benefits of camber at the knuckle as opposed to the tophat reducing positive gain.
Post #7 is equally odd because the user desires more camber than what is achievable using oddly clocked adjustable top plates. With my experimentation using cusco mount I was able to achieve very extreme Negative camber angles.