Squeak squeak

I don't know what to tell you as you have gone beyond the amount of inspection I would have. If its just making an annoying squeak I would let it go and wait and watch.  Sometimes squeaks just disappear and appear on their own or gets worse where you can then diagnose the issue. 

The Frog's brakes have started squeaking briefly but terribly when they are cold, especially when I first back down the driveway.  After driving a bit, about when the rest of the car starts warming up, the squeaking subsides.  Epic FWP.  The Frog has all kinds of issues with his brakes.  Well, three including this one, but the single serious one is bandaged and soon fixed.  Norwalk has outstanding prices and a really nice parts-finder utility, should see that booster check valve before the weekend, I hope.

Anyway, I often see these anti-squeak sprays, sticks, creams, masks, etc.  Scam?  Also makes a fine paint stripper/softener/effer-upper?  I am intrigued, but not biting.  If they work with no downside, I wouldn't think twice about parting with a grande latte to eliminate this FWP.  "Squeak-ass brakes" is not a great look for The Frog.  But I cannot think of how anything would remain on the pads or rotors for more than a fraction of a second, and if something did, do I really want that something in between the two working surfaces?  (Do I over-think things?)  Squeaking is caused by friction, yes?  Aren't the brakes related to friction somehow?  Friction is good, right?  I thought I heard that somewhere...

If this is essentially using a lubricant to even out the friction by gimping it, I want to be sure I am OK with that.  The idea of lubing my brakes seems counterintuitive at best.  Then again, in spite of the tons of snake oil known to be peddled daily, using herd-think says that if this were dangerous, it is way too blatant and shouldn't have lasted this long without lawsuits taking their natural evolutionary course. 

It's more likely that they do work, mostly, but only for about three days.  And then again, these products might be amazing in every way.

It's a conundrum for sure.  What do you think, The Frog?  <"SQUEEEEEK"> <quick tiny grabby-grind>

@nottamiata

I don't understand what one would apply to pads that might reduce the friction that creates squeak without affecting braking.

I am aware that some brakes squeak. My wife's TL has an intermittent squeak. One issue for those of us in states that use salt is that sometimes salt gets caught between pad and rotor and then there is the surface rust.

I use 3 products when doing the brakes pads. Silicone for bolt threads; ceramic heat resistant brake grease for the sliders and to light coat the caliper-pad seats; and (not yet on the 2) sometimes where pads are not as tight, I use a rubber-like glue product called brake quiet.

Squeaking brakes can have several causes.  As far as the anti squeak products go there was a time when the pad would vibrate with a high frequency against the caliper giving rise to that noise and you used that stuff to dampen the pad.  

These days most pad manufacturers use shims to address the problem and some of them have it built into the design.  Although you don’t need the anti squeak stuff I will apply a thin layer of moly paste on the back of the pad just for good measure.  

As far as the sliders and rods I will use high temp moly there also.  Some people use regular grease which is why they fail.  

You either need a better radio or exhaust.

Posted by: @cspidy

You either need a better radio or exhaust.

My exhaust and poly engine mounts fixed all of the cabin squeaks to where I don't hear anything but the ringing in my head. 

@dev

Link to where I can buy your poly engine mounts?

Posted by: @pwnzor

@dev

Link to where I can buy your poly engine mounts?

 

   Are you sure you can handle it.  For the side mounts I used Innovate which I don't recommend as they are harsh. It has taken a miles before they have settled down but still hard. 

 For the front and back I used these. 

https://twosrus.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=215

@dev

Ride comfort ceased to be a concern when I started modifying the car a little over a year ago. I turned over 100k miles recently and motor mounts are something I haven't replaced yet.  

I like things nice and tight, and I've got some rattling back there.  These mounts might just be the ticket.

Posted by: @pwnzor

@dev

Ride comfort ceased to be a concern when I started modifying the car a little over a year ago. I turned over 100k miles recently and motor mounts are something I haven't replaced yet.  

I like things nice and tight, and I've got some rattling back there.  These mounts might just be the ticket.

 

My advise is to just do the front and rear mount fist and then judge if you want to do the sides. 

The passenger fluid filled mount is key for reducing vibrations and if its replaced by a solid urethane one it gets rough. 

I removed the twosrus front and rear mounts that came with my car because the cabin resonance was unbearable. New stock mounts made shifting slower and rougher, so I installed Kirk's inserts front and rear. Better, but still too much resonance. Removed the inserts from the front mount since they were nearer to the cabin and the noise level is the best I can hope for at this point. Shifting still feels crisp, this is my current happy medium. At some point I plan to modify the front Kirk inserts so they still fill the mount but don't make contact with the mount bracket, we'll see how that goes, eventually.

Posted by: @marsrock7

I removed the twosrus front and rear mounts that came with my car because the cabin resonance was unbearable. New stock mounts made shifting slower and rougher, so I installed Kirk's inserts front and rear. Better, but still too much resonance. Removed the inserts from the front mount since they were nearer to the cabin and the noise level is the best I can hope for at this point. Shifting still feels crisp, this is my current happy medium. At some point I plan to modify the front Kirk inserts so they still fill the mount but don't make contact with the mount bracket, we'll see how that goes, eventually.

 Most people don't know what they are in for until they use urethane engine mounts especially for the first time until they settle down. You need to give them a chance to break in. Its weird because as they break in the vibrations get shifted around at different RPMs.  

  Im use to them now  but after adding the side mounts it was double that of the front and rear but I can never go back because the shifting is really nice and I feel when I get on the gas the car feels faster pushing me into the seat because the torque is transferred to the wheels instantaneously. Having the factory flywheel and a performance clutch gives the car a nice push in the back when shifting from 2nd to 3rd like a second stage booster. 

The side mounts also act like an additional brace for the rear connecting the engine to the frame which gives it a solid feeling. 

As to the drawbacks it can make the exhaust appear to sound louder and enhance drone. 

The poly mounts definitely settled after a couple thousand miles. Still vibrationy. One thing I did do was grind the sides of the bushings so that they would not touch the sides of the mount.

Just because I have these numbers, here's a reference:

Front Mount (12361-22050) located in the center of the car in front of the transmission ($48)
Left Side Mount (12372-22040) located under the battery ($72)
Right Side (12362-22040) clearly visible to the right of the engine ($108)
Rear Mount (12371-22080) mounts to subframe, visible from rear of car ($67

I think poly mounts are going to scratch me right where I itch.  Probably get them installed next month, busy buying another car for my daughter right now... gotta let the dust settle on the wallet before I go fixing something else that isn't really broken.