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Well, I had to replace the rad in my Spyder a couple of weeks ago. The engine started overheating sporadically, so I figured it was just the 2zz thing...then I noticed the fluid on my driveway, so I popped the frunk lid; coolant setting on the plastic. The rad had developed "a" leak at the lower, rear d-side, between the fans and rad body. I tried to do a chemical repair, but no go, so I ordered a new Valeo rad thru Advance AP. I drained the sys and pulled the rad, waiting for the new one to arrive, which it did, three days later. I got it installed, filled the sys with new Toyota red, and everything is hunky dorrie! The engine temp seems to be slightly lower, based on the needle position in the gauge, which I find odd. Maybe the old rad just wasn't getting the job done as well as it should have. The heater blows nice, hot air, so I know the sys is working properly.
The old rad was really "falling apart"! I could take my hand and rub across the the cooling "vanes", and on the lower half, they fell off like dandruff! It was definitely at the end of its life.
Again, the brand I purchased was Valeo, p/n 732417, and it was under $100(the Toyota coolant was almost as expensive!). It fit perfectly, and as I stated, it's doing its job perfectly.
"Think as we think", say many Spyder owners, "or you are abominably wicked, you are a toad". After I'd thought about, I said "I will then, be a toad."
Thank you, Stephen Crane
Topic starter
Posted : July 9, 2019 12:19 pm
Radiators are cheap cheap cheap. I recall taking my old copper tank radiators to the smelly radiator shop with the slippery floor, and the tank of green poison, and the eternal flame torch idling in it’s holster. It’s a whole lot easier now to click on the ipad, and a new part shows up in two days!
I make Amateur Armrests - see the Commercial Forum. I also have SMT repair seals available.
Posted : July 9, 2019 12:26 pm
Great job and no horror story about burping the water system either.
Posted : July 9, 2019 12:29 pm
My car is old but so far the radiator is holding up fine. I will have to keep a eye on it and maybe if I do a full radiator flush it might be a good time to be preemptive and change it out since its not that hard.
Posted : July 9, 2019 12:35 pm
I was hoping this was going to be a question about what radiator to upgrade to for street and track use.
Posted : July 10, 2019 7:37 am
anyone runs an oversized radiator?
Posted : July 10, 2019 7:43 am
I was hoping this was going to be a question about what radiator to upgrade to for street and track use.
I'll say it before Dev ..... you really don't need to upgrade your radiator even for the track . I went with an all aluminum one cuz they look cool !!
There use to be Koyo but I think they're gone now ....
So That leaves ..... Mishimoto https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mishimoto-Toyota-MR2-Spyder-Performance-Aluminum-Radiator-2000-2005/222091118396?fits=Model%3AMR2+Spyder&epid=3017015132&hash=item33b5a9873c:g:iQsAAMXQwKdRbrJ1
and these which use to be about a $100 bucks before all the tariff wars ..... OPL https://www.ebay.com/itm/Radiator-For-2000-2007-Toyota-MR2-Spyder-1-8L-Manual-Transmission-HPR201/333216133932?fits=Model%3AMR2+Spyder&hash=item4d953ab32c:g:ysIAAOSwmp9c8Bdb:sc:FedExHomeDelivery!61729!US!-1
Posted : July 10, 2019 10:25 am
I intend to track it at COTA and the track temps in summer are insanely hot here in central Texas. That and going to a turbo setup.
I have looked at SARD as well.
Posted : July 10, 2019 11:44 am
I intend to track it at COTA and the track temps in summer are insanely hot here in central Texas. That and going to a turbo setup.
I have looked at SARD as well.
Posted : July 10, 2019 11:48 am
Yeah the cooling effeciency has never been a issue at the track even with very high horsepower swapped engines along with many forced induction cars that were in the wild. Our cooling systems are over built unlike other cars where its a weak point.
Even if someone gave me that blingy aluminum radiator I would still stick to the OEM unit if I can find it. Here are my top 3 reasons.
1. Its a proven part that rarely goes bad. I have seen some very high millage Spyders with the stock radiators working well.
2. One of the aluminum radiator makers had quality control issues which caused them to go bad. Toyota's quality control is second to none.
3. Its has the right bleed screw location.
Posted : July 10, 2019 12:15 pm
I just read the thread that phats linked.
I trust Dave at DDPR. Probably the most knowledgeable person when it comes to the ZZ line of engines.
DDPR
I haven't counted, but there is an obvious visible difference if you have them side by side. SOMETIMES. What is interesting is I have seen similar differences between Mishimotos as well, so they may have multiple factories, or maybe they buy their center cores from multiple sources. Anyhow we have had fitment problems, cooling problems and leaking problems with Mishimotos. The Koyos have been pretty good though. The difference is that Koyo owns their own factories, whereas Mishimoto does not. I use the stock Toyota radiators unless we need an all aluminum one for some reason. We have had 500+ WHP cars on the stock radiator without cooling problems.
Posted : July 10, 2019 1:04 pm
Same holds true for a turbo K24A2 setup?
Posted : July 10, 2019 3:06 pm
Same holds true for a turbo K24A2 setup?
It should and here is the best way to know. Monitor your coolant temps and if its higher than normal then its time to entertain other options.
Some that retrofitted V6, V8 and all kinds of turbo and super charging never touch the cooling system.
Posted : July 10, 2019 3:22 pm
Same holds true for a turbo K24A2 setup?
I don't know why it wouldn't but I remember some kswap guys were having some cooling issues but don't think it was radiator related .
Posted : July 10, 2019 3:22 pm
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I'm not sure if the rad that was in was the original, but it was definitely at its end. I had never thought to remove the fans and check for any wear or damage, but if I had, I would have seen the hundreds of little shards of the aluminum "fins".
As far as how the Valeo rad is "made", compared to OEM(assuming what was in the car was OEM), it has the proper bleed valve, located in the upper, rear, p-side corner. Time will tell if it's as "good" as OEM, but Valeo seems to make good products, and mine is working well. At 69, my years are somewhat numbered, so I figure the rad will last til I'm done "needing" it 🤨
And this is my 4th-5th time doing a coolant change(3 different Spyders), so I have no problems with doing bleeding or having a working heater.
"Think as we think", say many Spyder owners, "or you are abominably wicked, you are a toad". After I'd thought about, I said "I will then, be a toad."
Thank you, Stephen Crane
Topic starter
Posted : July 10, 2019 3:38 pm
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