One year update. My repaired brake cables started seizing again. There was so much internal friction that the brake handle would be floppy after releasing. So I installed new cables. However!
I cut up the old cables to see what the heck was going on. Here’s what I found.
When I removed the cable liners a bunch of nasty water and grit came out also. I thought the grit was sand.
I cut the rubber coating off the housings to reveal... regular cheap steel spiral cable housing. NO liner whatsoever.
Conclusions:
When the rubber bellows tear at the rear brake calipers, water gets into the housings and everything goes south.
The cable housing rusts internally. The rust makes a nasty grit and the byproducts reduce the inner diameter of the cable housing. Then the inner cable starts dragging. Eventually the inner cable seizes as the rust builds up so thick that it grabs the plastic coated inner cable.
I suppose water inside the housing could freeze and also grab the inner cable.
In hindsight, I could have fixed my “repaired” cables by somehow running a stiff wire through the housing to chase out all the chunks of rust. Then lubing up the inner cable again and reassembling.
Here are pictures of all the crap I found.
I make Amateur Armrests - see the Commercial Forum. I also have SMT repair seals available.
I bet those cables start to rust even before the bellows get ripped . The spring thaw everything metal gets soaking wet . With my latest purchase I got a set of new Bosch cables , be interesting to see how they fit .
Whaa? Somebody else manufactures cables to fit the spyder?
I make Amateur Armrests - see the Commercial Forum. I also have SMT repair seals available.
Whaa? Somebody else manufactures cables to fit the spyder?
Nice! I wonder if Bosch duplicates the design, with plastic coating on the inner cable? Or just bare metal? Actually I’d prefer bare metal, where I could squirt some lube into the housing without fear of degrading the plastic.
I make Amateur Armrests - see the Commercial Forum. I also have SMT repair seals available.
The cable has a black plastic coating .... can't tell what's inside .
A new OEM cable is $26.
When I had trouble with my parking brake, it turned out that the cable was fine. The real culprit was the pads rusting to the rotors. They still do it from time to time, but the 1ZZ manages to break them free. A fairly nerve-wracking experience, however.
🐸, 2003, Electric Green Mica
They're $70 a piece, where did you find them for $26? I think you're talking about the baby "NO.1" cable from the handle to the splitter.
2000 Toyota MR2 Spyder, 2021 Lexus UX 250h F Sport
They're $70 a piece, where did you find them for $26? I think you're talking about the baby "NO.1" cable from the handle to the splitter
Norwalk Toyota.
Sadly, they are not taking online orders anymore, through that site. I will miss them. I think they are in CA, though. Maybe within driving distance, hopefully they, and everyone there, get through these fires. 2020 has not been kind.
🐸, 2003, Electric Green Mica
Link appears to be maybe a hood release cable?
I make Amateur Armrests - see the Commercial Forum. I also have SMT repair seals available.
Yup that's a hood release cable.
2000 Toyota MR2 Spyder, 2021 Lexus UX 250h F Sport
Sorry, maybe it was this one for $31.
If i got this one wrong (in a hurry ATM), check my HowTo thread...
🐸, 2003, Electric Green Mica
how about this: https://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=524092&ukey_product=3948121
the Price varies from $70 to $85 depending on the dealer - and you need a left and right.
LOL, I am a moron sometimes. Reading/memory is a skill, one which I appear to have forgotten. I am talking about the fuel door cable... THAT was 26 bucks when I bought it.
A whole different kind of thread drift, this.
🐸, 2003, Electric Green Mica
I definitely paid about $150 for the pair of cables. Conicelli Toyota is where I get all my stuff.
scottsmods.com