OEM Brake Pad part numbers

The best of my recollection its normal. The OEM pads are the best in my opinion for great modulation. The ABS kicks in very late giving you nice pedal feel and control.

@dev

Thanks! Thats why I decided to switch back. When I was trying to find the "best" pads I realised that the tires were the limiting factor, not the pads, and that more usable throw on the pedal would probably be more useful.

Also, Ill update if im able to do it, but im considering diy vacuum bleeding using a vacuum port off the engine, into a diy bleed bottle. Need to figure out what port to use tho lol

Edit: looks like ill be using the line that connects to the pcv

Sorry for missing this. Yes, the separation/line is normal. I also use PS brakes, pads and rotors, and will be doing the latest install very soon(my Spyder sat for many months last year, due to oil leaks and a slipping clutch, and the rotors didn't take kindly to just sitting). I personally like PS products, due to their braking performance and the nearly, if not total lack of brake dust. My tires are not a limiting factor...current tires; Conti ECS 205/50-15 x 4 on OEM Spyder rear wheels.

As for bleeding/flushing, why not use Speed Bleeders( http://www.showmetheparts.com/Speedbleeder/ ) or a simple hand pump for drawing the fluid?

@galo

Hopefully your brake job goes smoother than mine! Also those are some sweet tires haha. I run the yokohama adven fleva v701 during the summer and bridgestone ws90 in the winter.

So, as far as bleeding goes, I normally use clear tubing and an old plastic bottle for solo bleeding. Put some fluid in the bottle, make sure the tube is in the fluid, run the tube vertically from the bleeder, then loop back down into the bottle. Lets me bleed solo without any air getting in. You just sit in the car and repeatedly press the pedal.

I thought about getting speed bleeders before and if my current bleeders go bad, thats what Ill replace with.

I was just playing with the vacuum idea so I could bleed faster, and be at the wheel the entire time. Thought it would be cool to see if I could make it work off manifold vacuum. Ended up not doing it because i forgot to get a tube long enough to rub from the engine to the wheels lol. Maybe next time. Flushing ended up being pretty simple though, took 2 bottles of toyota dot3. Old fluid didnt look that bad.

However, Im still not even close to done replacing the pads and bushings on the calipers. The first wheel I did was the drivers rear and it ended up being the only wheel I did. The top slide pin (the one without a bolt) was stuck. Had to use a sledge hammer, blowtorch, and lots of penetrating oil to get it off. Took wayyy too long lol. 

Thought I would need a new caliper but I was able to sand the corrosion off the blind hole the pin goes into, using a really fat drill bit and sand paper. My drill chuck was too small though ao had to do it by hand. It now slides freely more or less. Ill probably get a wire pipe cleaner next time and run it through a few times with a drill. 

In the process though, I realllllly marred up the caliper with the sledge and crowbar, even using rags for padding. I may decide to repaint all 4 calipers while im doing this now.

I think the reason it got so corroded is because the little rubber thing that goes over the back of the caliper, where the top pin inserts into the caliper, is missing, exposing a tiny hole that goes directly to the pin. I found it on a toyota parts diagram but there was no part number, so I think I'm going to try and find something similar at a hardware store.

Another good pad manufacture is Akebono but I would still stick to the OEM pad. 

 Akebono are Japanese pads that are as good as OEM quality but they offer them in other compounds like ceramic. I have them on my Lexus and they do great. 

 As far as bleeding goes I have done just every method except for reverse bleeding where fluid is pumped into the bleeder to the reservoir which I hear is the best method. However I the best method for me has been gravity bleeding and I wish I would have tried it many years ago. It takes more time but it works with no fuss and no mess.  Just open the tap and let it flow. Vacuum bleeding can introduce air though the bleeder threads. 

The best brake fluid is the Toyota Dot 3 which you already have. I found out it is formulated to help the rubber from drying out and its boiling point is thought to be very  high  since it is used in their full size Trucks and SUVs. 

@dev

My oem toyota pads i just bought sctually have akebono printed on the side of the pad material

Posted by: @ria

@dev

 

My oem toyota pads i just bought sctually have akebono printed on the side of the pad material

 I did hear they are the OEM supplier for many Japanese brands. I didn't know they make them for Toyota.

 What I liked about the pads I used on my Lexus is the fit was perfect. If you ever used those off brands like Wagner at your local auto parts stores they have an odd fit and can cause premature wear but only the rare cases but they usually work 90% of the time.  I paid more for the Akebono for the Lexus because I didn't want to take that 10% chance and the pads are known for having good brake feel.  I can say they are not as abrupt like the OEM and the one piece design is very easy to change pads unlike our cars. 

I definitely hope I don't have to go to the extremes you did! Yes, the ECS's are nice shoes! I run Michelin X-Ice's in Winter.

I put Akebono's on my SLK350 in '11. Nice pads, but I've used PS in my last 2 Spyders, my G35 and now my 135i(I'm thinking of going ahead and buying rotors, just to have them when needed). Whatever pads were on the 135i were the dirtiest I've ever had! The OEM BMW wheels are silver, and the dust turned them charcoal. I put the PS's on last Spring, and both sets of wheels have very little, if any, dust.

@galo

Just a heads up, The caliper hardware (tin clips that come with pads) are different for the front right and left calipers. Or at least they were in my case. Took my like 15 mins to figure out why the pads wouldnt go on lol.

Yup, gotta keep the eyes open lol

This will be my 4th Spyder brake job, WHEN I get off my butt and get started! I have a wideband to install but I just keep putting it off.

Later!