[Sticky] MR2 Spyder Fluids

Posted by: @labcoatguy

This stuff? https://www.amsoil.com/p/manual-transmission-transaxle-gear-lube-75w-90-mtg/

Great stuff!

Is there a member of this community who is an AMSOIL distributor or was that at the other place?

I’ve used both Redline and Amsoil. Can’t tell difference in my NJ base daily U.K. 6speed. Summer no difference. Winter they are both more delicate. First 10 minutes 1st is difficult either product.

Now let’s go back to the Antifreeze. I believe it was pre-2004 that use red. I used pink in the 2zz swap because I could not locate the red. If it is advisable for me to swap, speak now I’m doing the rad swap this week. 2001 GTS motor in a 2003 with a 2005 water pump using a 2002 radiator.... 

interesting factoid:

”Pink Ingredients: Water (7732-18-5), Ethylene Glycol (107-21-1), Diethylene Glycol (111-4-6), Sebacic Acid (111-20-6), Potassium Hydroxide (1310-58-3)

Red Ingredients: Water (7732-18-5), Ethylene Glycol (107-21-1), Diethylene Glycol (111-4-6), Organic Acid Salt (532-32-1), Hydrated Inorganic Sale (1310-58-3)

RED is thicker even after doing the 50/50 mix, and works with the seals differently then the PINK.”

There is all kinds of conflicting information on the teleweb or phonograph, you know the points I’m making. Any recent real data?

Just for info: https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3330288/Re:_Toyota_red_long_life_&

wherein one finds:

Pentosin Pentofrost A1 at the O'Reilly's Web site. It looks like an attempted clone of Toyota Red (not Pink), just like the Zerex Asian Formula is an attempted clone of Toyota Pink (not Red).

Pentosin is a German company. In North America, CRP Automotive is the distributor and possibly the manufacturer:

http://www.pentosin.net/pressreleases/PentoFrost%20A1%20Antifreeze%201-11-11.pdf

Toyota Red (00272-1LLAC-01) and Pink (00272-SLLC2) are made by the Japanese company CCI in Illinois:

http://www.worldpac.com/tagged/Antifreeze-Coolant_002721LLAC.pdf
http://www.worldpac.com/tagged/Antifreeze-Coolant_00272SLLC2.pdf

CCI also makes the new Chrysler extended-life OAT purple coolant:

http://articles.sae.org/11284/

Note that the old Toyota Pink part no. was 00272-SLLAC and it was superseded by 00272-SLLC2. I wonder if they changed the formula. Original formula corroded the lead solder, found in the heater cores of 1995 and earlier Toyotas and some aftermarket radiators. So, perhaps it's a good idea to use P-HOAT Toyota Red for 1995 and older Toyotas (with copper/brass/lead heater cores) and Toyota Pink extended-life P-OAT for 1996 and newer Toyotas

@uncle-mush

I think it may have been Triz at the other place, cant remember for sure thou. I ended up just buying an Amsoil membership myself (the shortest one), then buying a years+ of fluids for both my vehicles. It turned out to be more cost effective than ordering through any distributor I found. 

Yes its Triz and he is a member here. Great dude and has one nice Spyder. 

Posted by: @ispy

Just for info: https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3330288/Re:_Toyota_red_long_life_&

wherein one finds:

Pentosin Pentofrost A1 at the O'Reilly's Web site. It looks like an attempted clone of Toyota Red (not Pink), just like the Zerex Asian Formula is an attempted clone of Toyota Pink (not Red).

Pentosin is a German company. In North America, CRP Automotive is the distributor and possibly the manufacturer:

http://www.pentosin.net/pressreleases/PentoFrost%20A1%20Antifreeze%201-11-11.pdf

Toyota Red (00272-1LLAC-01) and Pink (00272-SLLC2) are made by the Japanese company CCI in Illinois:

http://www.worldpac.com/tagged/Antifreeze-Coolant_002721LLAC.pdf
http://www.worldpac.com/tagged/Antifreeze-Coolant_00272SLLC2.pdf

CCI also makes the new Chrysler extended-life OAT purple coolant:

http://articles.sae.org/11284/

Note that the old Toyota Pink part no. was 00272-SLLAC and it was superseded by 00272-SLLC2. I wonder if they changed the formula. Original formula corroded the lead solder, found in the heater cores of 1995 and earlier Toyotas and some aftermarket radiators. So, perhaps it's a good idea to use P-HOAT Toyota Red for 1995 and older Toyotas (with copper/brass/lead heater cores) and Toyota Pink extended-life P-OAT for 1996 and newer Toyotas

 

 

 There is so much information that can go either way. All I know is that mechanics swear  by the red because it has a reputation from vehicles that were abused and where the coolant was never changed and they did not need component replacement. When the pink stuff came out they started to see some issues. 

 This is all hearsay but it was enough for me to stick with what my car came with that has been going strong for 20 years. My coolant was only changed two times in those 20 years and I had it tested a few years ago which showed it to be better than what it should be compared to my Honda that uses the OAT. 

I am an engine engineer and a few years ago I sat through a technical paper presentation by Prestone on their new formulation "Corguard".  I was convinced that it is an excellent, probably superior (and safe) substitute for most OEM OAT or HOAT antifreeze.  You can probably find the SAE paper online.  I use it.  Just look for the word "Corguard" on the label.  

Dave

In case anyone has trouble finding Amsoil GL4 I have emailed Amsoil and they have said their severe gear 75w90 is yellow metal safe.

OK I am jumpstarting this thread due to panic regarding my power steering fluid looking like black sludge and the Toyota product is dead. I just want to know if anyone has used the Nissan fluid and lived? 

thanks in advance for holding my hand through this difficult forward transition 

Edit How many quarts will I need 🙂 

@t-bone i've been ising pentosin chf 11s for about a year and a half with no issues. I cleaned out the power steering motor first though. Not sure if the nissan stuff is the way to go but ive heard good things. Ill let someone else give their experience on that though.

Posted by: @ria

@t-bone i've been ising pentosin chf 11s for about a year and a half with no issues. I cleaned out the power steering motor first though. Not sure if the nissan stuff is the way to go but ive heard good things. Ill let someone else give their experience on that though.

 

Thanks do you have a product number for the pentonsin if it's not this stuff?

https://www.amazon.com/Pentosin-CHF-Synthetic-Hydraulic-Fluid/dp/B002WTHW26

@t-bone yeah thats what ive been using. Keep in mind, ive only been running it for a year and a half to 2 years so i cant report on how it effects the motor full life cycle. I havent had any issues yet "crossing fingers". I only needed 1 can i think but i do remember wishing i had a little more because it was kind of on the edge with spilling/ flushing the system and then filling it.

Good luck, hopefully someone can comment on the nissan stuff.

@t-bone

https://www.spyderchat.com/threads/how-to-clean-out-your-power-steering-motor.154935/#post-2126447

Here is a link to my post on spyderchat. Even if you dont want to cleanout the electric motor side of the pump, you can still find my fluid flushing procedure near the bottom of the post. Good luck. 

@ria

Thank you. Not sure I will do this on my own, might just take it in to Mr. T with fluid in hand given my time to tinker is limited these days 🙂