Stopped for gas on the way home today, pulled the door latch, and it seemed stuck, pulled a bit harder (not Hulk-style here) and it popped open but seemed sticky. Another pull and it felt fine, like normal.
Filled up the tank for a disturbingly low price, then the door would not latch. Upon inspection, I saw at the end of the cable a yellow-ish or yellowed jacket, but no pin or latch at the end, just an empty hole at the end of what I presume is the cable. So of course, it's time to hit "The Parts Giant"!
I see there are two other parts besides the cable. There is:
Now, I am not being a cheapskate here, since the cable is only a bit more than that tank of gas cost, and I will be buying PCV valves for the Corolla and xB anyway (such a huge difference that PCV valve makes; thanks, Dev!). I am also considering grabbing an engine bay latch release cable too, since mine seems a little sluggish/stretched lately. I've read those horror stories... no thanks.
My questions:
Is there such a thing as the latch (77378-60020) just popping off? Can that be replaced all by itself? If I get the cable, I will certainly get the other two parts above, since they are about as much as a candy bar. But if these latches have a habit of just popping off, I'll just buy two or three and replace them as they wander away.
Also, what kind of a job is this? I ain't sceert to pull trim anymore, and not even to replace the parking brake cables now that I've laid eyes on them, but if this a Level 5 job, I'd rather not. I am getting to the point where the only things that still scare me are the engine internals, the transmission, and the ABS controller. And gutting my cats (any exhaust work, really). So, OK, still lots of trepidation, but I started out courageous, ha ha.
Anyway, how hard is this cable replacement? What's involved? Should I just do the whole thing instead of dorking around with just the latch?
The retainer (77378-60020) won't come out without the cable being removed first. The cable inserts into the retainer and twists in, and from there the retainer can't be removed. To remove the retainer you remove the cable then the retainer slides out of the fuel cap side.
All this is accessible from the fender liner of the driver's side rear wheel. Remove wheel, peel back fender liner, and the cable can be removed from the retainer (might have fallen out if the retainer broke). Check it out before you buy anything, cable might be fine.
2000 Toyota MR2 Spyder, 2021 Lexus UX 250h F Sport
You are the first person that I know of that has this problem. The engine latch sure and there are some other fixes that worked for me adding spacers that did the trick. There are some parts that just don’t fail and are worthless used. I can’t even begin to tell you the number of parts from a part out Spyder I junked because most Toyota components are bulletproof.
This is what it looks like (dig that pollen! Less than two weeks since I washed it).
I also re-checked the feel of the lever. The spring at the pull-lever end is OK, but I am not getting the same feel, like the cable itself is not moving inside the jacket. I think the cable may be shot.
But, I cannot see how I would replace the cable, though. Seems to be inside the body. I really ought to buy a repair manual if its going to be like this...
Went ahead and just ordered the cable, the two related pieces (while yer in there....), and in the spirit of while yer in there, bought the lid cable too. Both cables originate in the same place.
The Frog! Why did you wait until literally the first fil-up after I dismantled you?!?! Must you extract these kinds of "prank fees" as payment for the Permagrin? You must be trying to discover the fair price for Permagrin. Sigh, so be it, then. Just remember, your cousin the Corolla out there, whom you abruptly replaced, never had any problems at all. So I bought HIM, and Ms. xB, a PCV valve. He still runs too, ya know. He can get me to work JUST FINE, and YOU can just sit there in the driveway all by yourself with nobody to tell you how pretty and perfect you are. Is that what you want? IS IT??? No, I didn't think so...
So no more treats for you for a while, The Frog, until you can learn to at least let me work on you more efficiently. It's for your own good, for Pete's sake! You need to quit this thousand-paper-cuts BS. And to think I just bought you some kool new mirrors, even *after this little stunt! Just look at yourself!! Do you think anyone else would love you this much? OK, well, um, how about... do you think I don't love you enough? Must be. Well, it's a lot, I will tell you that! So why do you always prank me?
I will try to remember to do that. I took a few pictures of the swimming pool cleanup, but they are of little value, since it turned out to be a pretty mindless job. Mostly just documentation for my chiropractor so I don't have to explain how the heck I did that to my back.
A lift is one of my dreams. The garage is coming...
This is what it looks like (dig that pollen! Less than two weeks since I washed it).
I also re-checked the feel of the lever. The spring at the pull-lever end is OK, but I am not getting the same feel, like the cable itself is not moving inside the jacket. I think the cable may be shot.
But, I cannot see how I would replace the cable, though. Seems to be inside the body. I really ought to buy a repair manual if its going to be like this...
That yellow is the latching mechanism. To be more specific the actual latching part has fallen off. There should be a little black piece sticking out of it that retracts when the gas door lever is pulled. I actually have a spare cable from my first spyder sitting in front of me, I just can't post pictures or links right now. I don't remember everything that went into replacing it, the first time the job was done was about 8 yrs ago and a couple of us were working on various parts of the car at once.
Thank you, you read my mind. I imagined it looked something like that. I should have looked around on the ground for the pin, you know, for posterity. My fuel door has quite a bit of spring to it; I'm curious to see if the Corolla uses an actual spring. This part is not exactly used 1,000 times a day and I suspect the cheesy design of the fuel door (let's just be honest) places more strain on it than the cable pin would prefer or was designed for.
Yes, thanks, that was my hunch as well. Will investigate it when the replacement arrives, but not in love with the idea of "modding" it with some channel locks. Especially not in-place.
The Frog has a bunch of goodies on the way or already here. Naturally, the weather will be crap this weekend.
But, he gets his fuel door fixed, convex mirrors, driver side window weatherseal replacement, and if time permits, a new engine lid release cable. That one concerns me the most, in terms of effort.
The thing that concerns me the most, in terms of *cussing* is replacing the mirrors. A litle worried about breaking the inner frame during the switch. I do stuff like that sometimes. Doesnt even help when I know it is possible, still finds a way to snap, usually irreparably, LOL.
