Door trigger

I want the light to come on when I open the door as well as when I flip on the switch.

Oh, then just run another wire to the ground side of the switch. I think the switch is ground switched. Not 100% sure. 

@hello

FWIW . . . That is what happens with the way I wired my lights into the existing dome-light switch.  That switch is already there and provides the functions you want.  Although it is a little bit of work to fish the extra/new wires down the A-pillars,  it's not that hard as evidenced by even I was able to do it.  I just looked at the existing switch function and soldered the wires to the corresponding terminals.  That was about 10 years ago, but I'm pretty sure that's the way I did it.  

Great idea Uncle Mush

Posted by: @uncle-mush

@hello

FWIW . . . That is what happens with the way I wired my lights into the existing dome-light switch.  That switch is already there and provides the functions you want.  Although it is a little bit of work to fish the extra/new wires down the A-pillars,  it's not that hard as evidenced by even I was able to do it.  I just looked at the existing switch function and soldered the wires to the corresponding terminals.  That was about 10 years ago, but I'm pretty sure that's the way I did it.  

It's not so much the difficulty but the efficiency if that makes sense. I found the door trigger next to the driver's kick which is not only cleaner but also far more accessible.  And your switch would also turn on the domelight? Not a good idea to drive around with domelight on. I appreciate the suggestion.

Posted by: @haloruler64

Oh, then just run another wire to the ground side of the switch. I think the switch is ground switched. Not 100% sure. 

If I understand correctly, have a wire connected to the ground plug of switch and a ground on the car yes?

Edit: does it matter what gauge wire I use? The harness I got is 16 but my LEDs and car wires are 22ish.

Wire gauge is determined by load current, with an appropriately sized fused inserted near the voltage source that is used to protect the wiring from melting if a short occurs downstream.

So to answer your question, if the fuse is sized correctly for the largest sized AWG wire in the branch loads, you will be fine.

If the fuse is too large for the largest sized AWG wire, you run the risk of a fire within your wiring should a short occur.

The harness came with a 15amp fuse and I am guessing they know what they're doing. So I guess any wire >16 is fine.

Posted by: @hello

The harness came with a 15amp fuse and I am guessing they know what they're doing. So I guess any wire >16 is fine.

No, larger AWG = physically smaller sized wire.

So smaller AWG sized wire would be OK with the supplied fuse.

Posted by: @neomr2

Posted by: @hello

The harness came with a 15amp fuse and I am guessing they know what they're doing. So I guess any wire >16 is fine.

No, larger AWG = physically smaller sized wire.

So smaller AWG sized wire would be OK with the supplied fuse.

Wait. So I want 14awg? Doesn't that mean larger wire? I thought I want smaller wire. I just got 18-2 wire :/

Edit: the harness comes with an extra 10amp fuse as well. Should I use that instead? I figured higher amp is better.

14 AWG can handle more current than 16 AWG if both have the same insulation property types; 14 AWG > 16 AWG >18 AWG. 

Depending on where you are making the wiring connections, you may need wire that has insulation properties that can handle oil/gas exposure as well.

Just an FYI.

EDIT: Always use the lowest sized fuse that meets the load requirements.  Using a higher rated fuse in place of the specified fuse value is never a good idea.

These are LEDs I don't need 14awg and I am running under dash so I think I am ok. Maybe I should switch to 10amp fuse?

Anyways, got it to work! Of course, now it's tied to switch so light doesn't auto shut off when I close the door.

Posted by: @hello

These are LEDs I don't need 14awg and I am running under dash so I think I am ok. Maybe I should switch to 10amp fuse?

Anyways, got it to work! Of course, now it's tied to switch so light doesn't auto shut off when I close the door.

I never said you needed 14 AWG. 

I said you should size things accordingly. 

Measure the current through the LEDs and put the next standard size fuse in series with it and call it good.

I don't have a multimeter to measure current XD The positive wire length on the harness is a bit short sigh. Will have to play around with mount...

Hmm looks like a side effect is having the door ajar light on the dash to remain on or I am doing something wrong...