Changed the oil. Interesting observation.

For reference, I add 4.6 quarts (including new oil filter) when changing my 2zz. I do it prior to first morning start. It’s a daily.

Posted by: @ispy

For reference, I add 4.6 quarts (including new oil filter) when changing my 2zz. I do it prior to first morning start. It’s a daily.

 

Good to know. I got roughly 4.8 this time. I thought I had a leak as the dip stick level was much lower then when I normally change the oil piping hot. 

I've always stuck to the rule of changing the oil warm. Supposed to get a better drain.... I can absolutely see how a car that's sat for at least a few days would have more oil in the pan to drain thou. 

Posted by: @marsrock7

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I've always stuck to the rule of changing the oil warm. Supposed to get a better drain.... I can absolutely see how a car that's sat for at least a few days would have more oil in the pan to drain thou. 

Im doing it this way from now on. More oil evacuated being the result is better than having more then half a quart of old oil left behind.  I do hate that second of dry start noise with a car thats been sitting too long starting for the first time. 

@dev

Maybe it's time for us to start changing our oil with a cold engine, filling our oil filters with oil before installation, then unplugging our injectors and priming the oiling system with the starter 😛

Posted by: @marsrock7

@dev

Maybe it's time for us to start changing our oil with a cold engine, filling our oil filters with oil before installation, then unplugging our injectors and priming the oiling system with the starter 😛

Even if I started the car with the old oil the first start is all ways rough for second. I think that noise is from the valve train. It probably shortens it’s engine life by  50 miles at best but it’s hard on the ears for that split second. 

I think the SRT oil is a good fit because it’s more like a thick 30 weight oil with lots of moly anti wear additive. Probably overkill but at least the intake cam will last since that is what wears the most on the 2ZZ. 

@dev you getting VTC clatter? My VTC gear clatters on some cold starts for a second. 

Posted by: @marsrock7

@dev you getting VTC clatter? My VTC gear clatters on some cold starts for a second. 

I don’t have any clattering. Engine is very quiet. I only get a dry start If the car has been sitting for a very long time and it’s for a split second. I know many that do get the VVT clatter particularly 1ZZ as it sounds like it’s dieseling. It’s can be from a worn lock pin in the actuator or gummed up passages. I solved one owners locally with doing a AutoRx treatment and recommended this to other members. Some did a chemical flush and noticed that it was reduced by half.  
 

I have heard that if a car has sat for extended periods, you can pull out the spark plugs and add lubricant through the open spark plug hole.  I think the suggestion was a tablespoon of 2-cycle oil. But honestly, nah for so many reasons.  20+ years ago, I recall a mechanic telling me that I should not put oil in the filter during a change (although how F hard is that when the filter is sideways mounted!). The reason he told me is that the air between the pump and filter and filter cylinder head ends up compressing and not efficiently moving the oil as quickly as just letting it start with filter empty. So the filter fill time is less than the air pushing the oil time.

Maybe the excess oil after long sit is filter drainage?  Maybe residual oil in the pump and passages?

I stick with synthetic which allegedly remains adhered to the sidewalls (BS) longer and I daily my cars or close to it.

Prefilling the filter isn't hard even with a horizontally mounted filter. The filtration media soaks up the oil pretty quickly, I typically fill mine 3x before installing, and it usually looks empty by the time I install it. My TSX has a horizontal filter and I never spill a drop (from the new filter anyway). I do see my oil pressure light go away after an oil change much faster when I have added oil to the filter before installation. 

Prefilling the filter does seem to make a lot of sense.  I'm going to start doing that from now on.  It will be a bit trickier with the STi with how the filter is positioned, but some oil can be put in for sure.

I found some new information.

It appears that the hot oil changes will float up sediments on the bottom of the pan and will allow the oil to flow out faster. 
Not an issue with modern synthetic oil that had good detergency. I removed my pan once and the bottom was spotless. If you look at pans that run conventional oil they will have a layer of crud and sediments build up. 
Cold change has the advantage of getting more out. 

Changing oil annually is not necessary with a quality synthetic oil with a high enough base number as it will cushion acidity and as long as the moisture is burned off it should be fine. 

@ispy  Your mechanic is totally incorrect about filter filling.  The bottom line is that if you fill (or partially fill) the filter, the time from cranking to uninterrupted oil pressure to the bearings gets drastically reduced.  You can actually hear the difference between an empty oil filter startup and filled oil filter startup.  For the first startup after a filter change, would you rather pump a full filter's volume of air through your bearings, or a fraction of that volume? 

@ispy  Your mechanic is totally incorrect about filter filling.  The bottom line is that if you fill (or partially fill) the filter, the time from cranking to uninterrupted oil pressure to the bearings gets drastically reduced.  You can actually hear the difference between an empty oil filter startup and filled oil filter startup.  For the first startup after a filter change, would you rather pump a full filter's volume of air through your bearings, or a fraction of that volume?