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Hey Guys,
I'm going to add a picture to this thread tomorrow, but i've noticed a bright brown/ red crusty powder on my dipstick.
Im getting ready to change the oil (been about 4k miles) checked the oil level. It is about 1/3 from the bottom of the stick so normal. However, along the top of the measurement area, there is a bright red/brown crusty powder that is also on the dipstick wire in a couple spots. I wiped it off and put the dipstick in and out again and there it was.
First Thoughts:
Dried oil in dipstick tube
Rust in dipstick tube
Coolant getting into dipstick tube and crystalizing (coolant level is normal)
I did my head gasket last year with an oem gasket and properly torqued so dont think its that. Coolant could be slowly leaking from water pump or something? Idk if its even coolant. Not really sure what it is. Could also be orange permatex that i used from the timing cover turning into sand (ive heard thats a thing)
Anyways, im changing my oil this friday and sending a sample to blackstone labs for analysis. Do any of you have thoughts on what this could be? (Im going to add a pic to this thread). Car is between 70 and 80k miles.
Topic starter
Posted : March 22, 2021 10:07 pm
I think your suspicions are valid and if you didn't suggest the Blackstone analysis I would have. This way you will know for sure.
Let us know what you find out.
Posted : March 23, 2021 8:26 am
Topic starter
Posted : March 28, 2021 2:29 pm
I never seen anything like that. It will be interesting to see the oil analysis.
Posted : March 29, 2021 11:43 am
We will see. I might use a camera snake through my drain plug hole to inspect the area around the dipstick if the oil analysis says nothing.
Topic starter
Posted : March 29, 2021 4:24 pm
I am sure you already know this but if there is a substantial amount of water in the oil it should come out first when you drain. This looks like condensation to me. I have seen this on cars before and (guessing) I would think that it is a venting problem. I have not seen it on my Spyders. That is my 2 cents worth though it may be worth less than that.
2007 S2000 (New Formula Red)
2005 Spyders (Two in Paradise Blue Metallic, One Super White)
2004 Tundra SR5 Double Cab (White with 2UZ-FE Engine)
2003 Tundra SR5 Access Cab (Silver Stepside with 2UZ-FE Engine)
2003 Sequoia SR5 (Black with 2UZ-FE Engine)
1970 Olds 442 W30 (Nugget Gold )
Posted : March 30, 2021 9:28 am
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@desertwanderer Not just a venting (PCV system problem) You can also get excessive water condensed in your oil if you do repeated short drives in cold weather and/or you warm up the engine by idling (this puts a lot of water in the oil). This will be greatly worsened if you have disabled the PCV system, and somewhat worsened by using a colder than stock thermostat.
Dave
Posted : March 30, 2021 12:22 pm
2
@dblotii Thanks for that!
2007 S2000 (New Formula Red)
2005 Spyders (Two in Paradise Blue Metallic, One Super White)
2004 Tundra SR5 Double Cab (White with 2UZ-FE Engine)
2003 Tundra SR5 Access Cab (Silver Stepside with 2UZ-FE Engine)
2003 Sequoia SR5 (Black with 2UZ-FE Engine)
1970 Olds 442 W30 (Nugget Gold )
Posted : March 30, 2021 12:50 pm
1
@dblotti @desertwanderer
Thanks for the input! Didnt even think of that tbh. Would make sense though. The only time i drove my car this winter was commuting to work at 6AM. Drive is less than a mile and was always below freezing in the morning. I also frequently idled to warm it up to defrost the windshield haha. Engine almost never even had a chance to get up to temp during the drive.
Topic starter
Posted : March 30, 2021 3:04 pm
dblotti hit it on the head IMHO. I think driving the car only a mile or less than 15 minutes is tough on the drivetrain. I would guess that it is condensation created by block and everything in contact with it and that condensation never burns off because the car simply does not get hot enough.
Posted : March 30, 2021 3:11 pm
1
Maybe next winter ill leave for work earlier to get in a spirited drive on the way lol
Topic starter
Posted : March 30, 2021 4:32 pm
Maybe next winter ill leave for work earlier to get in a spirited drive on the way lol
Or just move farther away so the drive is longer!
2007 S2000 (New Formula Red)
2005 Spyders (Two in Paradise Blue Metallic, One Super White)
2004 Tundra SR5 Double Cab (White with 2UZ-FE Engine)
2003 Tundra SR5 Access Cab (Silver Stepside with 2UZ-FE Engine)
2003 Sequoia SR5 (Black with 2UZ-FE Engine)
1970 Olds 442 W30 (Nugget Gold )
Posted : March 30, 2021 7:19 pm
1
@ria Even if your coolant temp gets up to normal, the oil temp is lagging way behind. You need to get the oil above 150 f to start driving off moisture and you will never get to that temp by idling.
Dave
Posted : March 31, 2021 1:46 pm
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@dblotii thanks for the heads up on oil temp. I cant avoid the frequent short commutes to work but Ill be driving the mr2 for fun every week again now that its warming up. planning on making a rub down to the tail of the dragon after i flush my brakes. Still waiting on the analysis from blackstone to see if it could be anything else though.
Topic starter
Posted : March 31, 2021 10:50 pm
Thanks to everyone sharing in this thread. I learned a bunch. Thanks.
Posted : April 1, 2021 2:45 pm
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