Blown fuse?

Posted by: @haloruler64

Also T taps like to cut wires entirely. Don't use them. Where you did, remove them and resolder the wire if it's broken.

Sigh. I soldered for my keyless, I don't want to do it again -_-

Edit: I don't think I can solder anyways without adding in more wire which I don't really want to do. I should've just done door trigger and not add a switch then none of this would've happened.

That schematic you posted shows the switches normally open contacts, when closed, apply 12 VDC to the supply side of the relay coil which then closes its contacts to supply voltage to the LED modules.

I'm assuming the switch grounds were needed for the switch lighting.  

If the switch contacts were rated for 30A, according to the drawing fuse selection, there was no need for the relay.

Just an FYI.

Posted by: @neomr2

That schematic you posted shows the switches normally open contacts, when closed, apply 12 VDC to the supply side of the relay coil which then closes its contacts to supply voltage to the LED modules.

I'm assuming the switch grounds were needed for the switch lighting.  

If the switch contacts were rated for 30A, according to the drawing fuse selection, there was no need for the relay.

Just an FYI.

 

Which schematic, the original or edit? I kinda understand what you're saying. The amps from the diagram are just for that. My harness is likely different. I wanted to show how the wiring was laid out that's all.

It's funny, the harness allows the relay to be unplugged. Should I have done that?

Solder everything. Or quality expensive crimps and crimping pliers. Forget T taps, they're garbage.

Posted by: @haloruler64

Solder everything. Or quality expensive crimps and crimping pliers. Forget T taps, they're garbage.

How do I crimp a wire into existing wire without t-tap?

@hello

Original

Use haloruler64's advice too.

Posted by: @neomr2

@hello

Original

Use haloruler64's advice too.

Oh, the edited diagram resembles my harness more. I know. That's why I soldered for my keyless. I figured LED will be a quick job. HA.

Posted by: @hello

Posted by: @haloruler64

Solder everything. Or quality expensive crimps and crimping pliers. Forget T taps, they're garbage.

How do I crimp a wire into existing wire without t-tap?

Cut it, then solder it together with a third wire in play. There's plenty of great videos on YouTube on how to PROPERLY solder. You don't heat the solder, you heat the wire until the wire itself melts the solder and wicks it in. Globbing solder on top is a recipe for disaster. Then heat shrink it and you have a good connection. 

$110 later, it was the AM1 fuse that blew. What is that?

Posted by: @hello

$110 later, it was the AM1 fuse that blew. What is that?

The AM1 fuse is the fuse that supplies voltage to the ignition switch ignition one contacts and/or the accessory contacts.

Not sure how the car was able to run with that fuse blown unless the ignition relay is bad.

Posted by: @neomr2

Posted by: @hello

$110 later, it was the AM1 fuse that blew. What is that?

The AM1 fuse is the fuse that supplies voltage to the ignition switch ignition one contacts and/or the accessory contacts.

Not sure how the car was able to run with that fuse blown unless the ignition relay is bad.

Oh great, so I should replace the relay?

Edit: also why that fuse out of all the others?? I mean, ACC fuse would've made more sense?

Edit2: clearly my car is Bumblebee. A broken relay can't stop an Autobot!

Edit3: And I owe you 10 beers.

Edit4: cuz the ignition is right next to 12v where I tapped into. So much for the inline fuse on my harness or did the current move the other direction?

@hello

Where you tapped for your voltages could be why the relay worked, but I have no way to verify it.  Good luck.