Blown fuse?

Which fuse is the clock? That's not on.

I don't think it's a fuse problem. This is my fault. While installing LED, I left the battery connected thinking LED don't draw much power and easier to test if my wiring worked. Until I did something stupid. I have my harness positive wired to the 12v and harness negative to door trigger. I then connected a wire from my harness switch to ground. I believe that completes the circuit because the door ajar light came on. Then this is where I went wrong. I moved the wire on my switch from ground to power while the other end is still grounded. In short, I think I have a ground issue? If so, how do I fix that?

Edit: I should add that I have hanging t-tap connector on my 12v and door trigger wires that's not connected to anything. Does that matter?

For the clock, Fuse Radio2 (7.5A) and Fuse Dome (10A). 

Both of these fuses are fed by Fuse ACC (25A) via the ACC Relay which needs a ground to operate.

You really shouldn't be messing with electrical circuits without a meter and some basic electrical skills...

Posted by: @neomr2

For the clock, Fuse Radio2 (7.5A) and Fuse Dome (10A). 

Both of these fuses are fed by Fuse ACC (25A) via the ACC Relay which needs a ground to operate.

You really shouldn't be messing with electrical circuits without a meter and some basic electrical skills...

Yep. I am not touching it anymore. This is far worse than I thought.

Do a complete functional check of all of your electrical circuits - lights, horn, turn signals, etc.., and then post ALL of the circuits that don't appear to have power.

Once this information is available, some suggestions of where to look might be available.

Your biggest problem with trying to get internet help is you don't know how to use a meter and your explanations of what was performed is vague at best.

Or, you could remove everything you tried to install and then try to put everything back to its original state to see if its a wiring issue or if you broke something.

Good luck

Everything is already removed. Basically the power wire and the ground wire touched. It will be a minute to test everything but I can do that. But if the power window doesn't work but that fuse isn't blown, what could be wrong? I appreciate all the help.

Edit: the biggest clue is that none of the fuses seem to be bad. That could mean battery or alternator is bad except car starts right up just fine and everything was fine before the wires touched.

How are you confirming that the fuses are good

Pulling them out and seeing if it looks burnt or the arch is disconnected. So yes, only by visuals, not via multimeter.

Edit: I am hoping it's a blown fuse because that's very cheap and simple to fix. I am not about to pull ALL the fuses XD Besides, I pulled the fuses for the stuff that don't work which include power window, acc, guage, ecu and one other that I can't remember. They all look fine....

Edit2: unless I did the main 100a fuse replacement wrong -_- But I don't think so. (That said, I am level negative 100.) And the old fuse looks fine.

Always test with a multimeter. Looks can be deceiving. But I have no idea if that's really the cause. I shorted a main alternator power wire to ground and it fried my 100A fuse, replaced that and was good to go.

I wish replacing my 100a fuse solved the problem :/

Stuff that works:

headlights, brake lights, dome light, door ajar light, door chime, power locks

Do not work:

wipers, turn signals, power mirrors, power windows, radio, cigarette lighter, heat, power steering?

I am beginning to think it's related to ignition harness or something. Stuff that doesn't require key in ignition works, otherwise fail.

I think you have opened a ground wire somehow. 

The wire color you need to look for and trace is white with a black stripe. 

It originates on both sides of the car at the rear strut tower and then runs under the door molding up to the kick panel. 

If you had an ohm meter you could test by holding one lead to the chassis and then connecting the other meter lead to the various white-black ground wires. 

All readings should be near zero ohms. 

If any reading is not near this value, then that wire will need to be physically traced/followed while looking for a break, burnt section, or disconnected point.

Good luck.

You're a gold mine neomr2! I don't have a meter but I will ask my mechanic to trace it. I am curious. How did I open up a ground???

Edit: oh, the wire got toasted. But isn't that the point of a fuse?

@hello

It depends on how you wired your LED modules and if any of the wires somehow had their fused protection bypassed when you tapped into the circuits.

Posted by: @neomr2

@hello

It depends on how you wired your LED modules and if any of the wires somehow had their fused protection bypassed when you tapped into the circuits.

Yea, that's the part I don't know. This is very close to the harness I used except I only had inline fuse to power: https://photobucket.com/gallery/user/millergt1551/media/cGF0aDovTEVETElHSFRTIFdJUkVfenBzZGs1bnp1d20ucG5n/?ref=

Red wire from harness to car's 12V, black to door trigger. I had a separate wire from ground of switch to ground on car. Then I stupidly moved the wire from the ground on switch to power on switch and boom.

Edit: this is actually more accurate

Also T taps like to cut wires entirely. Don't use them. Where you did, remove them and resolder the wire if it's broken.