I am ready to flush the power steering on my 2ZZ equipped ‘03. The double zed swap means the power steering pump is energized with ignition in ACC. So, drain clean and refill the PW canister. But then will the pump actually pump or is that ‘energized’ state just mean a solenoid is getting juice? The issue would be will fluid be pushed out the return line without going start up and lock to lock?
Good question...3 weeks and no response...and I have no idea 😕 , sorry...
"Think as we think", say many Spyder owners, "or you are abominably wicked, you are a toad". After I'd thought about, I said "I will then, be a toad."
Thank you, Stephen Crane
Do whatever it takes to make the pump run. Take it for a drive if necessary. The goal is to have the system run fresh(er) fluid through the system. Then repeat a few times. Each drain/fill cycle will help chase fresh(er) fluid through the system…as you approach 100% clean fluid ever closer and closer, but never actually get there. 🙂
I make Amateur Armrests - see the Commercial Forum. I also have SMT repair seals available.
Hey just a heads up. I've been running the Nissan fluid for a long time now, and my power steering is starting to go out. Now I don't know why. Could be the fluid, more likely it isn't. The car sees a lot of abuse. RE-71Rs, sticky and wide tires on the front, track days and autocrosses galore... and the pump SEEMS fine. It's almost like there's some sort of other issue. Sometimes when I push the wheel at a standstill, especially if the wheel hasn't been moved in a while, it has 0 power steering. After a second it'll kick in and work fine. Almost like the pump isn't triggering. Steering angle sensor dying? Who knows. I thought I'd give you a heads up. More than likely I'll be looping the lines and deleting the pump anyway.
2000 Toyota MR2 Spyder, 2021 Lexus UX 250h F Sport
I discovered with surprise that there is no reason to turn engine on. You can simply spin the steering wheel with ignition on ACC. A full PS fluid canister is drained rotating lock-to-lock 2 times. It took 3 of these 2 L-L sets to fully refresh the rack. Unfortunately I did not realize just how pressurized the fluid return was with the ignition on and I had not initially realized that it was not 3 turns lock-to-lock but 2. The spare tire frunk area of my car is not going to rust any time soon.
Halo, it seems to me that your issue is a sensor triggering the pump. I don’t know enough about the system to speak. Seems we are between a rock and hard place - Nissan EPS v. Ravenol. Let us hope your concerns misplaced.
Cheers.
@haloruler64 when you say a long time can you be more specific? I have the Nissan fluid in my garage and it is one of the things that I need to do as the OEM fluid is near 20 years old at this point. Steering is aOK and I have been hesitant to replace even though I have read the threads and accept this is really the only option. I am assuming you can still pick up PS pumps if they go south but have not looked to check this out. Can you get a rebuilt one.
Since around mid 2018 I believe.
I haven't looked into whether you can source another PS pump, since I don't really want PS on my car.
2000 Toyota MR2 Spyder, 2021 Lexus UX 250h F Sport
@haloruler64 Can you just delete the PS? I would be OK with that having some experience with manual steering on cars of yesteryear
It shouldn't be hard, I believe Dev did it.
2000 Toyota MR2 Spyder, 2021 Lexus UX 250h F Sport
Hey just a heads up. I've been running the Nissan fluid for a long time now, and my power steering is starting to go out. Now I don't know why. Could be the fluid, more likely it isn't. Sometimes when I push the wheel at a standstill, especially if the wheel hasn't been moved in a while, it has 0 power steering. After a second it'll kick in and work fine.
From disassembling a few power steering pumps, I think the electric motor is the first to fail. I’ve seen a few with the commutators worn through to the phenolic. I think it helps the motor function to remove the magnet canister and blow out 20 years of carbon dust. I’m not aware of anyone rebuilding the PS pumps, anywhere. I can’t even find a shop that can repair the armature! New pumps (44310-17060) are listing for just under $600 each. I wonder how long before they start showing “unavailable”?
I make Amateur Armrests - see the Commercial Forum. I also have SMT repair seals available.
Considering the age of the car, I think it's time to get a storage space and fill it with some necessary parts before they disappear. Buy a few sets of headlights, a few other bits and pieces, and sit on them.
2000 Toyota MR2 Spyder, 2021 Lexus UX 250h F Sport
I started buying up parts a many years ago, but have gotten lax over the last few years. I do have a set of new headlights and taillights in storage. That was a chunk of change. I know I should probably buy a spare power steering pump -- especially based on previous posts and Toyota not making the proper fluid any longer. I'm just having separation anxiety about my money at the moment. 🙂
I expected carbon dust. Mine was not dust, not gummy, just slightly damp. I used electronic cleaner on non-bearing or seal areas and wiped everything down.
@haloruler64 I deleted my power steering years ago and I'm quite happy with it. But I didn't do a loop, I didn't like the feeling of a loop. With the delete I feel like I have more feedback through the wheel. I toe'd out the front tires to help with the low speed steering and I never had any issues with it.
I followed the Flyin' Miata guide which is close enough.
There's a thread I made about it on SC.
Most likely my links will get deleted because I'm "new" but you can find it all by searching for Flyin' Miata Depower.
Project to begin all Projects™
Coming Summer of 2023!
Thanks WhyT. The Flyin' Miata guide looks quite involved, I think I'll do the loop and eventually remove the rack and do it right the FM way. Assuming the loop doesn't require full removal. I've gotten too many alignments in the last two years as it is LOL.
2000 Toyota MR2 Spyder, 2021 Lexus UX 250h F Sport