Convex Exterior Mirrors

August 2020

Some guys missed out on the last group buy, so I’ve decided to do it again!

$85/pair including shipping in USA.

Please reply if you’d like a pair.

Description:

These mirrors are full-size replacement side mirrors (the glass part only) that help with the blind spots on both sides of the car. They have constant curvature. The factory passenger side-view mirror is convex, but a very slight curvature.  The field-of-view with these mirrors is bigger than the factory passenger side mirror (due to a tighter curvature).  Plus they are not etched with the “closer than they appear” caution.   They are blue tinted to minimize glare at night. The tint is not noticeable or ricer in my opinion. It is more equivalent to a factory tinted windshield. These mirrors are manufactured in USA. These blue tint convex mirrors are the highest quality mirrors they make.  They do not have any etching, just a clear panoramic view!

Use:

These mirrors allow you to quickly check for cars in your blind spot. I have tried the small stick-on convex mirrors and they cause problems. With small stick-on mirrors you must focus your eyes to look in the flat (original mirror), then change your focus again to look into the stick-on mirror. Small mirrors usually have a very tight convex radius which causes lots of distortion – plus they look crappy on the car. With these full-size mirrors you only have one focal distance for both left and right exterior mirrors. I use the factory windshield mounted center-mirror (flat mirror) to watch for traffic that is further than 10 yards behind me, and the convex side mirrors for closer traffic and changing lanes.  Give yourself a few days of driving to get your eyes calibrated.  Check the mirror, then look over your shoulder to verify.  You’ll quickly get a feel for how close is safe to change lanes.   With these mirrors, both your left and right exterior mirrors will be identical curvature (which helps with calibration of your distance judgement!)

This is one of those mods that you will get accustomed to and forget - but if you ever jump in another spyder that has flat glass, you will be shocked at what you're missing. These are in my "must have" list of mods.  Guys from previous group-buys will confirm!

Payment:

The total is expected to be $80 including shipping in continental USA. 

For offshore addresses I'll need a little extra for shipping.

PayPal address is:   - will be posted when I have them  boxed and ready to ship. -

Disclaimer:

Comply with laws before installing these mirrors.

I can’t answer for laws regarding use of these on the road. 

Alternatives:

Kamispeed in Orlando sells convex mirrors with a tighter curvature than these.  They sell for $155/pair.  Beyond that, I am not aware of anyone selling these for our spyders. At any price.

Installation:

These mirrors match the size (profile) of the original mirrors, but since they’re convex the middle of the glass curves out. You can either stick them onto the surface of your factory mirror using double-sided “foam tape” which is included; or you can remove the factory mirror and install the convex glass into the factory plastic frame. I’d rate the difficulty of foam tape installation at (1), and replacing the glass in the factory frame at a (3) out of 10.

Procedures:

To mount these on the surface of the factory mirrors, just use the included double-sided tape.  Use two layers in the middle (since the new glass is curved).

To mount these inside the factory frames:

First, remove the factory glass and backing frame. It takes a flathead screwdriver and a little patience.  Motor the mirror to the full-up and full-away position. Working slowly with a flat blade screwdriver, pry from below to release the plastic tabs.  Pry between the black backing plate (plastic), and the white mounting plate.  When the two tabs are free, the top of the mirror frame will hinge upward. There is some gooey white adhesive (from the factory) that you must pry loose (most spyders have this on driver's side only).

You have a choice at this point. 

a) Install the frame, then install the convex mirrors. (This is probably the safest method); or

b) install the mirrors to the frame and install them as an assembly. Caution: don’t push in the center of the glass.  It is curved and you can crush it.  Push on the edges only.

Remove the old glass from the backing plate.  It can help to warm up the plastic with a hair dryer, heat gun or just lay it on some hot concrete for a while.  I use a tongue depressor to work the old glass loose. Start at the top of the frame and work it around the perimeter.   Some safety glasses would be smart in case you do shatter the old glass.

Mineral Spirits seemed to dissolve the white goo if you get it smeared around.

Now you have another decision: Glue the new mirror to the backing plate, or use double sided tape.  I’ve done it both ways.   Since the new mirrors are not flat, you’ll need to glue the perimeter, or double-stack some double sided tape in the center.  Again, I’ve done it both ways.  You can use RTV (Silicone sealer) or doublesided tape ( included in the box) to hold the back of the mirror to the plastic plate.   

Put the new glass into the frame using your hands only. Tuck in a corner first, the press the new mirror into place gently with your thumbs, walking around the perimeter.  Be gentle with this step - convex glass has some unpredictable residual internal stresses and pushing too hard on the mirror may crack it. Never push on the edge of the convex mirror with a screwdriver! Depending on how your plastic frame has aged, the curled lip may be either a close fit or a loose fit on the glass.

To reinstall the backing frame, hook the hinge on top and snap the tabs back into their slots at the bottom.

It can help to support the interior of the mirror frame with a screwdriver as you snap the bottom tabs into place.   It gives you something to push against.   When you snap the backing plate into the car, maybe push on the face of the glass with the palm of your hand instead of using one finger or thumb (to help avoid a point-load that might crack the glass).

I'll put a bunch of pictures in the next post - for those of you that hate reading 🙂