...I'm putting this here, sooooo...
I'm in the process of installing my Innovate LC2. I have an FC Hako datalogger, already connected to the PFC. The LC2 instructions are as follows(words in " " and bolded are Innovates)... any thoughts, suggestions are GREATLY appreciated;
1. Wiring;
1..."connect the RED wire to an isolated switched 12v source." READ CAREFULLY; I'm removing/deleting the radio, since I have never listened to it in the 6.5 years I've owned the car. I'm going to use its power wire as the power source for the LC2, I'll just install a 5A fuse in place of the radio's, per the LC2 instructions.
2..."connect the BLACK, ground wire to a solid ground source. Innovate suggests the battery ground."
3..."the YELLOW wire is "Analog out 1". The FC Hako has a (+) ("AN1"), so I attach the YELLOW wire to this location, correct?
4..."NOTE: The LC2's ground should share the same grounding source as the device to which you are feeding the analog outputs, the easiest way to accomplish this is to run an aux ground wire from the ground point of the LC2(#2 above) to the ground or signal ground of the device you are interfacing with." This would be the FC Hako, correct? So I would run a wire from the "battery ground" to the FC Hako (-) ("AN2"), correct?
5...Innovate provided 1" W/B O2 sensor bung...They say to use this to "best protect the sensor. When fully threaded, the sensor's tip will sit flush with the exhaust pipe, this does NOT adversely effect the readings." I'm sure the tip of the current O2 sensor is extended into the "pipe", but it is located straight out the back of the pipe. I would like to move the bung/sensor to the TOP of the pipe, just to protect it from accidentally contacting a parking curb when backing into a spot(also trying to make it as difficult as possible to steal...yes, a coworker had this happen in our parking lot). So, I would have the provided bung welded so its end surface is flush with the inner wall of the pipe, correct?
Thank you for your time
Galo, aka Mark
"Think as we think", say many Spyder owners, "or you are abominably wicked, you are a toad". After I'd thought about, I said "I will then, be a toad."
Thank you, Stephen Crane
Topic starter
Posted : January 16, 2022 2:05 pm
I remember having 2 serial connections going to the laptop when tuning. 1 was for the PFC, the other was for the WB O2. Is there a way to connect a serial to USB to the LC2 for logging? I think the LC1 had something like that. I'm using a PLX Wideband and it's been a while since I've done any tuning, but I will be there again once I get the engine back in and will have to remember all this stuff. haha.
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Posted : January 19, 2022 8:53 pm
Uh, as far as I know, I have one cable connecting the PFC to my laptop, and it goes W/B->LC2->FCHako->PFC->laptop. I was wanting to make sure I got the power and grounds correct(especially the grounds). Innovate says use the battery ground, other knowledgeables say use the engine. The BGB wiring scematic and MFster's video shows 2 locations on the engine; 1 at the lift solenoid, and 1 to the head, near the t/b, next to the cam cover. This is the ground I'm going to use, then connect to the soon_to_be_gone radio power. I'll replace the radio fuse with the 5A fuse for the LC2...but why are there 2 fuse locations for the radio; radio1(15A) and radio2(7.5A)?
"Think as we think", say many Spyder owners, "or you are abominably wicked, you are a toad". After I'd thought about, I said "I will then, be a toad."
Thank you, Stephen Crane
Topic starter
Posted : January 20, 2022 9:17 pm
@galo I definitely had 2 USB connections whenever I was tuning. And I am 9 9% positive one was WB O2 and the other was DataLogit. The reason was that the datalogit (and probably FC Hacko) were not high speed enough to capture the data for the O2 sensor from the lambda cable.
Hopefully, someone else also knows what I'm talking about since it's been nearly 15 years since I've done this. ... And I'll have to be doing it again once the replacement Built engine is in place.
Get your Short Antennas, Decals, and all sorts of goodies at:
https://takubanmotorsports.com
Posted : January 21, 2022 10:12 pm
@lordtakuban ...here's a pic, from sensor to LC2;
Circle is sensor to cable, square is cable to LC2, oval are the power/ground + the analog wires that connect to the FC Hako. It's too f-ing cold to go out and look at how the FC Hako is connected to the PFC, but there is no separate cable connecting the W/B to the PFC.
"Think as we think", say many Spyder owners, "or you are abominably wicked, you are a toad". After I'd thought about, I said "I will then, be a toad."
Thank you, Stephen Crane
Topic starter
Posted : January 22, 2022 3:33 pm
I took a look at my 2ZZ to get familiar with the ECU ground location, and...no wires are attached at the location shown in the BGB(thanks to pwnzor for BGB pics) nor MFster's video video on 2ZZ wiring ground locations. I emailed the shop that did the work on my car last Summer...to be continued...
"Think as we think", say many Spyder owners, "or you are abominably wicked, you are a toad". After I'd thought about, I said "I will then, be a toad."
Thank you, Stephen Crane
Topic starter
Posted : January 25, 2022 7:48 pm
@galo Interesting... Is there another module that the LC2 interfaces with that has a serial output or some sort of digital out? I do know that I log my AFR separate from the output from the FC Box. But it's been so long since I've done any of that and my car is in several pieces ATM.
And when I was using an Innovate sensor, I had the LC1. maybe that one had a serial output on it?
Get your Short Antennas, Decals, and all sorts of goodies at:
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Posted : January 27, 2022 8:05 pm
Just the yellow analog wire(I don't need the brown) to the FC Hako.
I had an LC1 back in '08-'09 but an FC Datalogit, and I've lost too many memory brain cells, in the 13-14 years since, to remember much about it! I do know I had an easier time getting it installed and running.
I have a few projects for the car, so I'll work this in, in time.
Have a good weekend.
"Think as we think", say many Spyder owners, "or you are abominably wicked, you are a toad". After I'd thought about, I said "I will then, be a toad."
Thank you, Stephen Crane
Topic starter
Posted : January 28, 2022 11:05 pm
Ok, I posted my downloading problem in the Copilot forum, so now, back to the LC2/wideband install. I decided to remove the radio(I've never listened to it) and use it's power supply to power the LC2. The power is supposed to be a "switched on" source, and the "main power" to the radio is switched on. Well, I tested the circuit, and with the key "off", my multi meter indicates 0.5v. Will this damage, overheat the wideband? I'm going to call Innovate tomorrow, and may just drive up there tomorrow(they are just West of Chicago, 4-4h15m from Indy).
Any thoughts/info? Thanks!
"Think as we think", say many Spyder owners, "or you are abominably wicked, you are a toad". After I'd thought about, I said "I will then, be a toad."
Thank you, Stephen Crane
Topic starter
Posted : February 27, 2022 10:54 pm
Well, it's been a year since I started this thread...I totally forgot about it, so, sorry for not reporting back.
I finally dove in and got it done, and the engine runs very nicely. As far as I know, it's all working well.
So, thank you ALL again for your info, insight and support!
Also, I bought the car 8y9m ago with the PFC already installed, it just didn't have an "interface(thank you pattylipp!!!)". I'm pretty sure the FC-HAKO I've had for years is foobarred, so I'm going to take a drive to MWR and test it. IF it isn't working properly, I'll either buy an FC-DATALOGIT from them, or cough up the $$$$'s for an ECU Masters EMU Black. With an EMU Black, any tune shop can tune it, unlike the PFC(the shop near me won't touch the PFC, but is familiar with the EMU Black). Hopefully, Winter will keep staying away as it is currently, and I can easily do the 9hr round trip from Indy.
Again, thank you to all who chimed in with help, it's was/is great appreciated!
"Think as we think", say many Spyder owners, "or you are abominably wicked, you are a toad". After I'd thought about, I said "I will then, be a toad."
Thank you, Stephen Crane
Topic starter
Posted : January 5, 2024 3:03 pm
Glad to hear it. There is another option on the market too, ... Wite ( http://witedevices.com ). It has some fancier connections. I don't have any direct experience with it. But it looked like a great option if my FC Datalogit didn't work or connect to my modern laptop.
Get your Short Antennas, Decals, and all sorts of goodies at:
https://takubanmotorsports.com
Posted : January 10, 2024 3:39 pm
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Yah, Patrick has that in one of his vids. It looks interesting. I'm looking into getting a new laptop and giving the Co-pilot/Win11 thing a try(I want the laptop regardless).
"Think as we think", say many Spyder owners, "or you are abominably wicked, you are a toad". After I'd thought about, I said "I will then, be a toad."
Thank you, Stephen Crane
Topic starter
Posted : January 18, 2024 6:27 pm
Yah, Patrick has that in one of his vids. It looks interesting. I'm looking into getting a new laptop and giving the Co-pilot/Win11 thing a try(I want the laptop regardless).
I bought a really cheap Lenovo on Black Friday that is small, but runs windows 11 and has a great battery life. It runs CoPilot and connects to the DataLogit via a Serial to USB converter cable. I think the Wite device would be cool with Bluetooth, but I don't know exactly how I would connect it to CoPilot.
Luckily, I've chased down most of the gremlins and am now able to just drive the car and do some logging and tuning. Now, I just need to find time to do that.
Get your Short Antennas, Decals, and all sorts of goodies at:
https://takubanmotorsports.com
Posted : January 24, 2024 4:11 pm
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