Dropped kid at school, came back home and before getting it off the car I noticed my lights were on (normal headlights, dash, parking). Hmmm, didn't remember turning then on. From outside the car I flipped switch. I was a little confused from that position standing outside the car. I had to get back in the car to figure it out. But the lights went off as expected. I went inside and a few minutes later I came back out, lights were on. Wait what? Thinking I had messed up, I sat in car again and played with the switch. It operated normally. I went inside, came out... lights on, but now I can see them flicker off on, then stay on. I play with the switch worried I gotta go to work. So I stand there and watch them. They are staying off. I don't have time to investigate but kinda concerning on a daily. I now have to run out and check my car during the work day. But the battery will issue not last long with HID. This issue needs to be addressed.
Any thoughts. What's my range of issues?
Switch, a short? Thanks
Do you have a non factory alarm system?
The only 'alarm' is the OE (2003).
I have a 2000 2zz Celica ECU.
I have a 2016 Retrofit Source (TRS) H7 Harness driving Alpha H7 HID (Alpha HID) using the Mazda H7 Adapter. I very rarely use the headlights.
I would check everything aftermarket first. Even if you rarely use the headlights there might be a short or a grounding issue. If any of the adaptors use transistors that would be suspect also.
Next I would investigate the charging system. Usually when the charging system is shorting out it can make the rest of the electrical system choose a different path and have the electronics do weird things like there is a ghost in the machine.
The battery is not holding a charge longer that 3 days. But it was running and charged. I am having faith in the Toyota parts. and but who knows. I'm thinking the issue might be related to 1) the relay that powers the HID ballast; 2) the ballast; 3) ground at headlight. I had fender replaced after dumpster at body shop went rogue. (Fender near ground... near ballast mount.)
Okay... When I installed these HID in 2016 right after the installation, one cold night one headlight (L) stopped working. I pulled in a lot and went through everything. When I started the car again it all worked. I know nothing was loose but it was a fresh install and I had never dealt with the many clips. So I thought I must not have fully clipped one of the connectors. But that really bugged me. Last year I was told by my wife who was driving in front of me that the lights were not solid they had a slight blink. I figured the car view a rear view mirror looking at my lowered stiff suspension car with bright lights on a country bumpy road was prolly a bit wrong. But I checked, it was fine - solid. Last week I started the car in a parking deck and I noticed in this really cold night the left side was ever so slightly blinking barely enough for anyone not hypersensitive to notice. But when it warmed up - two minutes later - it was solid. Then today's lighting issue. Then tonight, leaving work, dead battery. Driving home, the left light goes out.
So it's wiring, ballast or bulb. My wiring is solid I really am sure, but last the year the left side front bumper was backed into by a teen, then before I even got the car back from the body shop the left fender was nailed by the shops big ass dumpster which wasn't latched and the fender was replaced. The bulb, hmm maybe. I will start with a new ballast. I'll check the wiring making sure it's good, no pinches. I am going to start hunting for an OEM ballast because aftermarket is not as solid as OEM. Hard to find used ballasts.
First step is to examine the harness. Since it has power going to it, the relays might be frying. Or there's a short. I'd check continuity on everything to make sure what should be connected is connected and what shouldn't be isn't. Can't be ballast or bulbs because they can't spontaneously turn on without power. Could also be your switch? Much less likely.
Slight flickering on older bulbs when they warm up is normal. Also HIDs use less power than the factory halogens, 35W vs 55W. Once warmed up of course.
2000 Toyota MR2 Spyder, 2021 Lexus UX 250h F Sport
I called The Retrofit Source. He was thrown by all the lights going on and didn't believe it was the kit wiring. Because the parking and interior lights went on along with the left and right headlight we go back to the switch. But then just one light out...
What about the Body Control Unit Multiplexing Module. Does this body control computer control lights?
Oh damn it's the parking lights too??
I don't know of any body control module on this car.
2000 Toyota MR2 Spyder, 2021 Lexus UX 250h F Sport
It's the module above the clutch pedal. The one that's moved over when making way for the under dash sub.
89221-17020
Controls alarm, windows, accessories and maybe lights.
I had no idea we had that.
2000 Toyota MR2 Spyder, 2021 Lexus UX 250h F Sport
Body control module appears to only run windows...
I make Amateur Armrests - see the Commercial Forum. I also have SMT repair seals available.
I see a diode in the daytime running light circuit. How do those things fail?
I make Amateur Armrests - see the Commercial Forum. I also have SMT repair seals available.
I see a diode in the daytime running light circuit. How do those things fail?
Either short or go open
Problem Wednesday. Was away dawnThursday through dawn Monday. Monday morning for daily commute, battery good, started, (all) lights work fine, no mystery’s. I can’t wait for thanksgiving so I can play. Can’t think of any reason (and don’t give me crap for vetting), but if the battery were really low, could that create such ghostly issues? Battery connections are solid.