[Sticky] How-To perform an Oil change

@dev

I agree, that it is not necessary for long engine life to pre-fill a new filter, but compared to all of the other ways we pamper our cars, this is pretty sensible.  The amount of damage that might be done to bearings that are being pumped air instead of oil for a couple of seconds may be microscopic, but if it can be avoided, I am happy to go to the extra effort.  By the way try this:  after an oil and filter change with an new empty filter, have someone else start the engine and stick you head close the the engine.  You can actually hear the engine get quieter after the oil filter is filled and the bearings get oil.  It takes more than a few seconds.

Posted by: @dblotii

@dev

I agree, that it is not necessary for long engine life to pre-fill a new filter, but compared to all of the other ways we pamper our cars, this is pretty sensible.  The amount of damage that might be done to bearings that are being pumped air instead of oil for a couple of seconds may be microscopic, but if it can be avoided, I am happy to go to the extra effort.  By the way try this:  after an oil and filter change with an new empty filter, have someone else start the engine and stick you head close the the engine.  You can actually hear the engine get quieter after the oil filter is filled and the bearings get oil.  It takes more than a few seconds.

 No doubt I do it but only fill half way now so its easy to avoid a mess.  I also use a little bit of the oil to lubricate the seal.  If the implementation or ordination would cause a mess to fill the filter and install it, I don't worry about it.  I also don't worry about getting every last drop of oil out now. I use to wait a half hour but its pointless.  When it starts dripping I cap it off unless Im attending to other work. 

After having to remove a recalcitrant oil filter using a pipe wrench from one of Mr. T's other autos, I now also lube the inside of the oil filter threads.  This is in addition to doing the rubber gasket at the top of the filter.

It takes just a second.... and for the plus thirty years I have been doing so, I have never again had to deal with a stuck oil filter.

I have found that suck oil filters are a result of over tightening the oil filter. What I will do is lube the oil filter gasket and hand tighten to where it is snug but no more than that. It is also a good practice to tighten and back off a quarter of an inch so the gasket is not deformed.  Many I have seen use a tool to tighten the oil filter which is a bad practice that can actually get your oil filters so stuck they require a breaker extension to get them off.  Even with hand tightening people over torque the oil filter and the drain plug where they are damaging the threads. I now use a torque wrench with a new gasket which makes removal much easier.  

As far as how important is it to lube the rubber gasket I often wondered because I do what Im told and often wondered how important it was. One day long ago I observed a friend change the oil on his girlfriends Honda where he didn't lube the gasket and once started he developed an oil leak.  It was messy but a great way to find out its for reals. 

Not lubing the seal is the main cause for stuck oil filter. The rubber bonds to the face of the oil filter adapter and sometimes the filter must be destroyed to get it off. 

Leverage to tighten an oil filter is absolutely unnecessary. Lube the seal, and hand tighten just to *snug*. It will always take more effort to take off than put on. If you hand tighten appropriately, you can also remove the filter by hand with no tools necessary. I haven't had to use leverage to take off any oil filter I've put on for over a decade, and would have it no other way.

Nice T... a couple of points and suggestions.

1 & 16; The car is driven onto ramps, then raised in the rear. After replacing the oil & filter, & taking the car off the jack stands, the engine has to be started to get the car off the ramps to truly level the car. Give it a few minutes(generally ~5min), then check the level...and why not go ahead and put in the correct full amount in the first place? 4qt with OEM 1zz oil pan, 4.5qt with OEM 2zz oil pan(volumes per the Spyder & Celica BGB's).

One suggestion on draining...after removing the drain plug, lower the rear of the car. With the dp location, this will allow those extra few ounces of dirty, old oil to drain. Re-lift the rear, now install the drain plug. Yes, extra steps, but with the extra oil drainage, why not? What else do we have to do...save the world 😉 😉 

Another suggestion; wear nitrile gloves during the dp and filter removal. Keep that dirty oil off our hands.

Another thought; I normally don't lift the rear of the car. I can easily reach the dp and the filter with the rear tires on the "ground". If one doesn't have to get under the car, this is a safer, less time consuming method. I do understand using the time under the car to look for any damage/worn is a good thing...again, just a thought.

 DIY and be proud!!! Maybe we could have a parade 😉 😉