I had to help someone do this job last year. I did it the best I could but ran into trouble on two of the nuts because they were easily rounding off like the metal is soft. I even tried a bolt out which has saved me a number of times and one time for another member for exactly the same thing but this was the first time It failed because the nut edges crumbled easily. I stopped right there and told the owner to take it to a shop along with two new studs where they can use torch it and it worked. I do not know what happens to the nuts but they round off easy and the one I successfully removed the stud was chewed up anyway and had to be replaced. This is just a reality when working on old cars. I have heard the older Porsches like the 944s are nightmares for this kind of stuff.
@dblotii Six point FTW!
2007 S2000 (New Formula Red)
2005 Spyders (Two in Paradise Blue Metallic, One Super White)
2004 Tundra SR5 Double Cab (White with 2UZ-FE Engine)
2003 Tundra SR5 Access Cab (Silver Stepside with 2UZ-FE Engine)
2003 Sequoia SR5 (Black with 2UZ-FE Engine)
1970 Olds 442 W30 (Nugget Gold )
Thanks, yes was using the 6 sided hex, the nut was just so rusted all of the corners disintegrated.
After all of the effort on the manifold flange nut discussed previously ended up breaking one of the rear heat shield upper bolts in the sleeve thread on the manifold, barely put much torque at all into the bolt before it snapped. Maybe 2 mm of bolt thread on either side of the sleeve (calling it a sleeve thread for lack of proper terminology). After several trips to the hardware store I finally gave up with a screw extractor not doing much but drilling a hole through the bolt. Gave it over to a machine shop today to finish the extraction. For all of the money spent could've just bought the aftermarket headers, but then where's the fun in that I suppose. 🙄
After all of the effort on the manifold flange nut discussed previously ended up breaking one of the rear heat shield upper bolts in the sleeve thread on the manifold, barely put much torque at all into the bolt before it snapped. Maybe 2 mm of bolt thread on either side of the sleeve (calling it a sleeve thread for lack of proper terminology). After several trips to the hardware store I finally gave up with a screw extractor not doing much but drilling a hole through the bolt. Gave it over to a machine shop today to finish the extraction. For all of the money spent could've just bought the aftermarket headers, but then where's the fun in that I suppose. 🙄
Sorry to hear. Those bolts get weakened with time. I still think you went the right way with gutting. I use to recommend the cheap EBay headers but the last two that I have seen leak as the flanges are not true and it will have you live with a slight air escaping sound. I think its better to have the leak free connection in the end.
Yes I agree, also gives me the opportunity to do an art project on the heat shields. 👍