Fabrication project suggestions?

I know this is an ambitious suggestion but it is one  that I have been keeping for a long time. 

A master cylinder brace. This is something that you find on a lot of other platforms and it works.   I tested a working prototype a long time ago and just before the JB weld broke it did make a major difference in feel of the brake pedal.   

 I observed a lot of flex on the wall where the master for both the brake and clutch is mounted. If this can be arrested it would enhance driving feel.  There was a company what was trying to develop one for the Spyder and they never got around to it. 

 I thought maybe a solution is a clamp of some sort that can be fabricated to fit the strut brace and add tension on both masters might actually work. 

Diffuser/diaper replacement

Ohhh a front splitter and brackets to mount same to stock bumper

Posted by: @dev

I know this is an ambitious suggestion but it is one  that I have been keeping for a long time. 

A master cylinder brace. This is something that you find on a lot of other platforms and it works.   I tested a working prototype a long time ago and just before the JB weld broke it did make a major difference in feel of the brake pedal.   

 I observed a lot of flex on the wall where the master for both the brake and clutch is mounted. If this can be arrested it would enhance driving feel.  There was a company what was trying to develop one for the Spyder and they never got around to it. 

 I thought maybe a solution is a clamp of some sort that can be fabricated to fit the strut brace and add tension on both masters might actually work. 

 

I did look at the support structure for the brake.  The factory brake mount structure under the dashboard seems to be a straight path from the dashboard box beam to the bulkhead. It looks like a good straight path to carry load.  Would an added strut go under the dashboard, or in the frunk?

Posted by: @pwnzor

Diffuser/diaper replacement

Can you reload the picture please?   Splitters and diffusers might be a challenge to ship at a reasonable price.

Posted by: @cyclehead

Posted by: @dev

I know this is an ambitious suggestion but it is one  that I have been keeping for a long time. 

A master cylinder brace. This is something that you find on a lot of other platforms and it works.   I tested a working prototype a long time ago and just before the JB weld broke it did make a major difference in feel of the brake pedal.   

 I observed a lot of flex on the wall where the master for both the brake and clutch is mounted. If this can be arrested it would enhance driving feel.  There was a company what was trying to develop one for the Spyder and they never got around to it. 

 I thought maybe a solution is a clamp of some sort that can be fabricated to fit the strut brace and add tension on both masters might actually work. 

 

I did look at the support structure for the brake.  The factory brake mount structure under the dashboard seems to be a straight path from the dashboard box beam to the bulkhead. It looks like a good straight path to carry load.  Would an added strut go under the dashboard, or in the frunk?

 It would be in the frunk. There will be an adjustable turnbuckle that presses on the master to keep it arrested. The sheet metal that both masters are mounted to are thin and flex quiet a bit. If this flex is arrested it would make the brake and clutch pedal have less compliance and it actually feels more connected.  

Here is an example of one of the many types of brake braces on the market for various cars as this modification is quiet popular because its something that is actually felt unlike a lot of other stuff. 

https://www.amazon.com/Torque-Solution-Master-Cylinder-Forester/dp/B076JKXZ55/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=brake+master+cylinder+brace&qid=1583265966&sr=8-2

They come in many different configurations and mounting solutions to work but the basic premise is the same.  

 On our car we could have one arm and two turnbuckle arrangements for the clutch and the brake.  

 When I had a prototype fitted and at the time couldn't weld I made one out of metal bars attached to the PS mounting points using JB weld but it broke. For that brief time that I used it, it was amazing and felt nice.  

 If this is done right it could sell like hot cakes. I wanted to do this for a long time but just didn't have the means. I do think if its mounted on the strut brace it would be far more ideal and simple. 

I did some searching and this would be an ideal mounting solution for us. 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Grimmspeed-Master-Cylinder-Brace-BLACK-03-07-Lancer-EVO-8-9/124064448672?epid=10004189774&hash=item1ce2d140a0:g:dUMAAOSwipdauMY4:sc:FedExHomeDelivery!20905!US!-1

 This would go on the strut tower under a strut brace and then an arm would run parallel to both the clutch and brake master with two turn buckles. Its easy for anyone to install and requires no additional mounting solution. 

+1 for rear diffuser 

Non-intrusive LUGGAGE RACK.

Easy on/Easy off is a very nice to have feature.

If black were the only option, I bet most wouldnt complain. Or sell a primed-only version in addition to your choice of black, or black.

I would be OK with one-piece, but if a small portion needed to remain on the grill, i could live with it if it blended in OK. Goes without saying: No drilling. Well, I could live with drilling the steel sheet under the grill, actually. Put some stand-offs there where the rest of the rack has some feet or posts that "drop in"?  ...uh, securely...

I'd still be interested even if it were a more traditional not-all-that-easy-on/off, but why go only halfway to Awesomeness?

PS - how hot does it actually get up there on deck? So maybe don't race with your (long) weekend getaway bag up there.

Posted by: @nottamiata

Non-intrusive LUGGAGE RACK.

Easy on/Easy off is a very nice to have feature.

If black were the only option, I bet most wouldnt complain. Or sell a primed-only version in addition to your choice of black, or black.

I would be OK with one-piece, but if a small portion needed to remain on the grill, i could live with it if it blended in OK. Goes without saying: No drilling. Well, I could live with drilling the steel sheet under the grill, actually. Put some stand-offs there where the rest of the rack has some feet or posts that "drop in"?  ...uh, securely...

I'd still be interested even if it were a more traditional not-all-that-easy-on/off, but why go only halfway to Awesomeness?

PS - how hot does it actually get up there on deck? So maybe don't race with your (long) weekend getaway bag up there.

Luggage rack project is going ahead as we speak.  I found a local fabricator that is making “luggage rack adapters” that screw into the tow hook attachments.   Installation is about 2 minutes.   There are pictures and a video here...

https://www.mr2-spyder.com/community/group-buys/trailer-hitches/#post-5737

https://www.mr2-spyder.com/community/group-buys/trailer-hitches/#post-5737

@cyclehead,

Yes, I saw those, and I am interested in a non-financial way (for now). I am still very interested in the idea of pulling a super-light trailer, but still cautious about it for reasons written elsewhere. Most of that is probably an abundance of caution, but I dont think I need to repeat NotTooOld's experience.

I am interested in a true on-deck rack, if it is workable. The OE ones are nearly unobtanium, so I also think there might be a good deal of interest in this version, versus the trailer hitch. People do love having options...

Besides, with a light trailer, *and* a luggage rack, you could actually take these little guys on a camping trip -- and have enough room to bring your Sweetie along too!

 (Poor The Frog's entire low back and lumbar area is hurting just thinking about having all that extra junk in the trunk)

Oh, you were describing a rack on the engine cover.   I wonder if attachment at the hardtop mounts would work for forward mounting points?   Would require a fancy hinge though. Hmmm

Hadn't thought of that, but my engineering level is "layman". That location sounds better than four feet on the deck lid or heat shield, even though I never planned on putting a 2ZZ or 2AR up there to get it home for a swappin'. (just saw a 2016 2AR for just over $1K with of course no idea if it is junk, but, uh, "I'm just *sayin*...")

Much more stable to put the front supports there, puts more of the load closer to the center, transferred much more to directly the body. The Frog says "yup." He also thinks maybe Cyclehead would be a better Frog Dad, with that kind of thinking, but he wouldnt be an only frog there.

Anyway, have read luggage racks are scarce, and have seen one for sale once for $450 or something 500-ish like that. Really? Its a frickin oven rack, guys... so dont ask me for five Ben, but I would easily consider a pair of Ben, or whatever's actually fair.

Wait, that sounded kinda dick-ish, but then, asking 5 Ben for an oven rack with legs is kinda dick-ish too, LOL. Ok, lets try that again... I think "something well south of 5 Ben" is fair, but I value quality work, and I feed myself by my skill; fabrication and innovation is quite worthy. My son is out at his anvil as we speak.

The classic carrier racks pop up now and then for $200 or so. Keep an eye on AdChat classifieds (still much higher volume there). I have also heard the Miata classic carrier racks can be made to fit with only minor modification. Those are still for sale.