Sooner or Later Your Spyder Is Going To Need New Paint, What Is It Going To Cost?

Posted by: @uncle-mush

Posted by: @dev

Uncle Mush just reminded me about adhesion promotor. The best one that I have used is SEM sand free.   The best way to use it is after you sand the primer you give the area a light coat and while the adhesion promotor is still wet you apply your first coat of paint.  The promotor will help with problem areas on the primer so paint is equally distributed as its atomized form the spray gun and it helps fuse the paint to the primer.  As for the bumpers that are urethane you need to use flexible primer surfacer. 

I would also not remove the all of the existing paint from the bumper because if you do it might make things worse with the urethane disinergrating. Instead use scuffing gel and plenty of water until the part is entirely gloss free and uniform. 

 

 

 

 

My experience was different from yours, dev.  With the product I used, I first had to scuff the bare surface of the HDPE, then spray a coat of adhesion promoter on the scuffed HDPE, then the primer, then sand to smooth and then the color coat (single stage color coat).  I also used that same process on one project where I used a two-stage paint process (water-based color and clear-coat).  I only mention this in case there are differences in adhesion promoters and how they are used.  I have very limited experience with the process, as I have only had to use adhesion promotor on three projects.  I'd have to go out to my shop and unearth a bunch of stuff to get the name of the adhesion promoter that I used.  I've still got the can.  If anyone needs me to do that, let me know and I'll go out to the shop and get the product name and post it here.

You can do it that way also UM. That is how I painted my carbon fiber mirrors. I scuffed and then used adhesion promotor before primer because I didn't want any runs. 

The adhesion promotor helps hard to apply  primers and paints but even if they are not hard to stick it helps with the absorption of the material so it saturates evenly.  I don't do it for my painted products before priming  because I don't have any issues with the primer sticking to my prepped surface since they are mostly flat.  

It depends on the instructions and whatever product you use but you can also try using the adhesion promotor before the first coat of paint as it does wonders for pigmenting into the primer. This tip was taught to me by my paint supplier.  

I use mainly SEM products.  

Back in '12-13, the estimate I got was $3000. I'd guess it's gone up since, for a quality job. I was wanting to go with Toyota Crimson Red 3J6, not Absolutely Red 3P0. My car was silver, so I wasn't going to get the frunk or engine bays done, just the visible areas around the "cover gaps".

Quality isn't inexpensive.

Just got back from the body shop and to repaint my Spyder with some quality Metallic Black paint, fix all of the fiberglass imperfections and damage areas, and to leave the hood and trunk as is (Carbon Fiber with Clear Coat), it will cost approximately $4000.  Not too bad considering I am changing colors.

Just an FYI...

Posted by: @neomr2

Just got back from the body shop and to repaint my Spyder with some quality Metallic Black paint, fix all of the fiberglass imperfections and damage areas, and to leave the hood and trunk as is (Carbon Fiber with Clear Coat), it will cost approximately $4000.  Not too bad considering I am changing colors.

Just an FYI...

I've decided I don't like metallic black so stick with basic black ..... for resale value of course !! LOL  😜 

@phats

LOL...

No one wants to trade!!!

🤑

EDIT: Oh, and the rear duck tail is gone...

@neomr2

What No ducktail !!!  Go ahead and paint it metallic then ..... 😆 

You're are trying to skip a step ... trade for cash then trade cash for what you want .  😋 

Posted by: @phats

@neomr2

What No ducktail !!!  Go ahead and paint it metallic then ..... 😆 

You're are trying to skip a step ... trade for cash then trade cash for what you want .  😋 

 

🤣

4500

A gallon of paint tint (just the tint) is 700-1100.

A body guy takes minimum of 1 to 2 weeks if there is minimal work necessary. 1200-2000 per week for a good quality guy for take home salary.

Health Care for said laborer 300/week.

Supplies (thinner, paper, clean up, booth, new clips, polish, equipment, etc.) maybe 500/week.